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2011 Chevy Tahoe, 10k watts, 4 Fi BTL 15s, 4 DC Power alts!


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The attention to detail is absolutely mind boggling!!

DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGER

Currently Own
4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option

2 - DC 5k

lvl 4 motor

lvl 2 motor

On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said:

this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick.

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Need to buy some matching carpet, Googling just brought up a bunch of weak-ass sites. Any suggestions?

Ram from Audio Savings pointed me to YourAutoTrim.com. That's where I snagged my carpet and vinyl. They have a pretty good selection and are quick too.

If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARS
UnderLoK-Tanq-SMD-Forum-resized.jpg
Check out my walled TBSS build over here
4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9
DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500
Pioneer X8500
6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S
Second Skin
2 270a Mechman Alts

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Not sure how much you've used those XM brain things but I've had to unplug and plug back in the one in my wives car 4 or so times in the last year. Just keep that in mind that you might need to get at that cable ;)

If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARS
UnderLoK-Tanq-SMD-Forum-resized.jpg
Check out my walled TBSS build over here
4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9
DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500
Pioneer X8500
6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S
Second Skin
2 270a Mechman Alts

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Not sure how much you've used those XM brain things but I've had to unplug and plug back in the one in my wives car 4 or so times in the last year. Just keep that in mind that you might need to get at that cable ;)

Luckily it's real easy to drop the glove box in this truck so I won't have any issues reaching it if I have to.

Tomorrow I finally hook the HU up to the 5 billion brains and wires I've been organizing and soldering. Will the magic smoke come out? :mexsmoke:

You have GOT to be shitting me. Everything worked the first time! But the radio is still sticking out 5 inches, lol. Now I get to spend the rest of the day fitting it all properly. (Pics later, of course.)

when i installed my pioneer, i started around 4 or 5 and was working on it until 12 trying to get everything to fit, it mad me so mad i quit for the night and had to work on it another 2 hours the next day

that PAC 0S4 is such a pain in the ass, i think you may be shoving more back there then me, i had the pac module and the steering wheel control.

then i had to re-route the stock antenna cord because it was getting pinched on the back wall between the radio and wouldnt let it go all the way back <_<

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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Next, onto the main wiring job. Time to solder together the Alpine harness with all the rest of the modules.

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I hope I'm doing this right, lol? (All heat-shrunk areas also get covered by electrical tape.)

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Even though eventually I'll just need the RCA output for the aftermarket amps, I decided to hook the Alpine speaker-level wires to the PAC OS-4 inputs so in the meantime I'll have sound out of the OEM speakers. Now the big question is since the Alpine doesn't have an internal amp turnoff mechanism, will I eventually have to snip these wires, or will just unplugging the OEM speakers or OEM amplifier be sufficient long-term (or will something fry)?

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Soldering done, but wires not protected yet. The number of interconnected parts here is hilarious. We have the Alpine harness with external fuse box, the PAC OS-4 with external chime module and external relay, the PAC SWI-JACK, and the PAC TR7. (Not counting the SiriusXM brain already in the car, along with three antenna wires, mic wire, remote wire, camera wire, six RCAs, and a USB wire).

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Programming the TR7 outside the car using a battery. This is the parking brake bypass device.

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First attempt at organizing the modules. No, this didn't fit in the dash. I was determine to actually fit all this crap in the empty spaces behind the dash instead of making upwards of 40+ solders to extend the harness and locating them somewhere else.

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Some test-fitting.

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I :heart: friction tape.

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The OS-4 is wrapped in Overkill and allowed to hang on a ledge above the HU. There is really is nothing to attach it to here, but it's very light and its connections are reasonably strong (PAC is very good about this), so I don't see any problem with this.

The other modules are hung off to the right in an open area behind the dash. I wrapped them in big sheet of overkill held with easily-removable tape once I got them in there.

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Better. (I had to cut some stuff in the dash, more on that later.) The blue remote wire is hooked up to the blue remote wire in the car with a wire nut, because I want to keep it removable. The pink wire from the HU is for the rear brake light, to trigger the backup camera, and it is also wire-nutted to the OS-4 harness. (Those two are the only wire nuts used. The occasional wire nut, when taped-up and zip-tied, is very reliable, although of course nothing beats solder. As for quick-disconnect terminals, they all suck ass.)

i was sondering why you didnt use crimping. lol will keep in midnt when re-doing it all. i knew there had to be a better way besides crimping. make it look more oem you know. i love to get as close to oem look as possible i hate when its all messy looking like you had rats do the job. awesome build soo tuned in. came a little late. but soo many great ideas :D im still trying to figure a shape for my door panels. my rear ones aren't going to be much trouble its the front ones im still debating over :/ have like 100+ ideas... that wont work :(

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i was sondering why you didnt use crimping. lol will keep in midnt when re-doing it all. i knew there had to be a better way besides crimping. make it look more oem you know. i love to get as close to oem look as possible i hate when its all messy looking like you had rats do the job. awesome build soo tuned in. came a little late. but soo many great ideas :D im still trying to figure a shape for my door panels. my rear ones aren't going to be much trouble its the front ones im still debating over :/ have like 100+ ideas... that wont work :(

I've never had luck crimping very small-gauge wires, soldering is always better. Now with 4- and 0-gauge, crimping is absolutely the shit if you have a good crimper (and I just bought a reeeeal good one so you will all find out what it can do soon, heh.)

well ive never had a problem. have some really nice crimpers that were gifted to me. but i like to look for new ideas always to improve and what not... you learn everyday right. i wanna see your new crimpers. :D NOWW!! lol nice look on that HU i stick to single dins. i have in my head that you lose SQ for looks when going with a double din instead of a single din. please prove me wrong i really would like a touchscreen one lol

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i was sondering why you didnt use crimping. lol will keep in midnt when re-doing it all. i knew there had to be a better way besides crimping. make it look more oem you know. i love to get as close to oem look as possible i hate when its all messy looking like you had rats do the job. awesome build soo tuned in. came a little late. but soo many great ideas :D im still trying to figure a shape for my door panels. my rear ones aren't going to be much trouble its the front ones im still debating over :/ have like 100+ ideas... that wont work :(

I've never had luck crimping very small-gauge wires, soldering is always better. Now with 4- and 0-gauge, crimping is absolutely the shit if you have a good crimper (and I just bought a reeeeal good one so you will all find out what it can do soon, heh.)

well ive never had a problem. have some really nice crimpers that were gifted to me. but i like to look for new ideas always to improve and what not... you learn everyday right. i wanna see your new crimpers. :D NOWW!! lol nice look on that HU i stick to single dins. i have in my head that you lose SQ for looks when going with a double din instead of a single din. please prove me wrong i really would like a touchscreen one lol

The Alpine INA-W910 is actually the first double-DIN that's acceptable for SQ purposes because it has both iPod direct connect (no DA/AD) and time alignment (TA) built-in. Those two were absolute requirements for me and I was on the verge of getting a Pioneer DEX-P99 but the 910 was just released. Lack of on-board crossover for active 2-way is more of an annoyance than a SQ limitation because analog crossovers can always be added downstream (the ones that come with car component sets or that Arc Audio IDX). Whereas nobody makes an analog device that does TA. (I am a purist about avoiding all unnecessary DA/AD conversions, even external Alpine processors like the H701, H800, and H100 are usually using the shitty 22-gauge analog wires in the AINet connection for audio transport).

I already posted the pics of my new crimper, you can see them here:

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114410-2011-chevy-tahoe-10k-watts-4-fi-btl-15s-4-dc-power-alts/page__view__findpost__p__1628032

WOW!!! those crimpers are huge lol. i thought mine were big :D and well i just last week purchased an ALPINE CDA-117 so tha'll do for now. upgrade later on.for now i need to start to finish my build as my POS pre-fab box broke today.... glad my POS subs made it out alive seeing as they are only about a week old :/

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