splzx3 Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 this build sucks..... j/p bro ur eye for making stuff perfect is spot on this is one of few cleanest builds i have seen in a long tym keep it up bro ________________________________________________________________________ deepsilencer, on 22 Aug 2011 - 17:32, said: splzx3, on 22 Aug 2011 - 17:27, said: i had my fun on one of his videos...till he blocked me then i got my mother into it lol after her he closed the comments xD lol your mom is a G! WTF, I never thought I'd have a conversation about cross dressers and trans-genders on a car audio forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyFriery97 Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 so your removing the back seat? 2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab 1994 Chevy Full Size blazer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jd1102 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 this build sucks..... j/p bro ur eye for making stuff perfect is spot on this is one of few cleanest builds i have seen in a long tym keep it up bro Appreciated. (BTW that's a hypnotizing avatar you got there sir.) x2 hehehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jd1102 Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 naw man just a few glitches man u can do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieroGrande Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 I think you can get away with a washer. Just make sure dc is aware and it should be resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AA98hoe Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Every quad bracket that I've seen installed has required some modification to wrk properly. I just had to add another pulley on my dc triple bracket to achieve more belt wrap on my pulleys because of belt slip I've gone through 4 belts in a year none have broke I just change them when they slip real bad as far as bolts aren't they just standard grade 8s? How many runs front to back are you doing? Id suggest 2 per alternator and if it was me id do 2 grounds per also just my opinion. I love your attention to detail TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryptonite Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 If you have an advance auto parts near by, they carry 10.9, that's where I got my metric 16 bolts for my battery trays. DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGERCurrently Own 4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option 2 - DC 5k lvl 4 motor lvl 2 motor On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said: this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyFriery97 Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 So I managed to find a post where somebody had emailed JL Audio about grounds and they said that even on a full-frame vehicle like a Suburban the resistance of the frame is only as good as what you'd find with 4-gauge wire. So I'll stick to running dedicated ground wire to the front. looks like i need to run a ground from up front, im grounded at the frame 2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab 1994 Chevy Full Size blazer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 So I managed to find a post where somebody had emailed JL Audio about grounds and they said that even on a full-frame vehicle like a Suburban the resistance of the frame is only as good as what you'd find with 4-gauge wire. So I'll stick to running dedicated ground wire to the front. I think that's a load of bologna man. Most of the guys you see around here are grounding to the frame myself included. I used to ground to the front, but after finding the real cause of my amps blowing the hell up I moved the ground back to the rear and it's disco. If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkahns51 Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Little brother to the big-ass crimper. This can do 8 AWG and down. MDF. Big sheets are top, top, bottom, and spare. Small sheets are for sides and whatever else I need to do like bracing, amp rack, etc. Also will need to buy some dowels and 2x4s for bracing. The big sheets are going to be tricky to trim because they won't fit in my table saw. I'll have to use the router trim tool to match lengths (BTW do router bits get dull and have to be sharpened? How do I tell and how do I do it?). The box. Four Fi 15" BTL N2s, two ports, subs up, ports back. Note that the Torres shot is for a box half the size. This is because it doesn't support calculating two ports in a box, so you have to model a half-sized box (you plan the whole box as two half-sized boxes next to each other, minus the adjacent walls). You also just can't model a box with one port and cut the port in half because the extra friction of the new wood changes tuning, see this JL Audio tutorial for why. So the box is about 32hz, 17.82cf (4.46cf per sub), 15.26si of port per cf. Bracing will consists of MDF corners, 2" dowels, and 2x4s. In addition I will be adding internal metal bracing to the walls on the port side since the battery bank will be up against there (as described earlier). Also some fiberglass will be used where it counts (to connect the two dowels at the cross, for example). (I'm not a fan of soaking the entire inside of a box in resin, waste of money and weight.) Box will be connected with wood glue and brad nails from an air nailer. I hope the bracing is enough, it's 0.5cf worth. There is enough room to run a 2" nylon ratchet strap up and over the middle of the box, between the subs and ports, attaching it to the car. 48" wide means the box will fit snugly in the cargo bay, between the wheel wells, so right-left movement will not be possible. Movement back-forth and up-down will be restricted by the nylon strap I ordered (rated for 1000s of pounds, going under that OEM bracket for the removed rear seats). I will try to follow this excellent MECP box-building tutorial as far as adding roundovers and notches and so on to make carpeting easier. Box will be covered in black trunk-trim carpet. I may be wrong... but shouldnt the hieght of the port be 22.5 if wood is 3/4? 22.5+1.5=24. Then by adding the double baffle button it automatically subtracts it on the cut-list. Also by clicking on double baffle it will still keep your height at 24 on the box. I might be wrong.. just wanted to throw that by you for double checkin Edit: nm it is probably right the way you had it. **Clicky>>My 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Buildlog<<Clicky** I'm messing up 98% of the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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