Guest grim83 Posted October 16, 2011 Report Posted October 16, 2011 nice work, how do you like those seas up front?
UnderLoK Posted October 16, 2011 Report Posted October 16, 2011 Looks great man! How much drop are you actually seeing (if any)? I couldn't tell with that red meter if it said 13.8 or 14.8. That area you are talking about with the rattle, is it just behind the seat belt (in the same pillar)? You could prolly shoot foam in there. If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts
CJ18 Posted October 16, 2011 Report Posted October 16, 2011 Try using great stuff in the rear panels to fill the huge gap and keep it from flappin.
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted October 22, 2011 Report Posted October 22, 2011 14v at idle FTMFW. I called that. Remember only 3 alternators are on the sub amps.
AA98hoe Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 You sure that not your motor dieseling? That what it sounding like. If all 4 alts are loading down at idle it could do that. Also there's tons of tricks you can do to get louder on the meter. You can clip a lil bit to get more power from them amps for a brief second. I do. Also pvc roundovers on inside port edge and outside TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.
FieroGrande Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 Congrats on the 50 club groundpounder and nice roof.
03flairside Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 it sounds like your truck is stalling when you are getting the squeak, how low do your rpms drop on a hard bass line
noph33rracing Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 sick build Team DC Audio : Team Shok : Team NWSPL Co-Founder Head: Pioneer AVH-P5200DVD Front Stage: Morel Tempo 6.5's/ CDT 6.5's Subs: (4) 15'' DC XL's, 15 cubes @ 38hz Sub Amps: (2) Shok 5k's Speaker Amp: Shok 100.4 Wiring: Shok Industries 1/0 Electrical: White Mechman 270/Adjustable Voltage/3 Shuriken BT120's/3 XS XP3000's
VIPmeetSPL Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 Merz I was wondering.about how much u ended up spending on materials and equipment all together ...just yo have a thought of about how.much. it would cost to gave a.sick ass sub. ;D pm me good sir
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 The goal was to reduce (but not to eliminate) flex, and to protect against roof damage. After doing that I took this video: http://www.youtube.c...h?v=9aEQ7JuVYRg It definitely still flexes, but I don't think there is any danger of ripping now. Some other interesting things from that video. The song peaks at 42hz, so it doesn't show the low lows, but does vibrate things nicely. It's not quite at full tilt because it peaks lower than I thought (-14.4db according to Audacity). Voltage is dropping to 13.5. Also, I looked under the hood to help diagnose that "clanging" noise from the earlier video that one person thought might be belt slip. The clanging is definitely coming from the alternator area (1:15 in), but I don't see any belt slip occurring. Odd. Maybe Kyle can see WTF is going here... Alright, after looking at the video very carefully here is the "issue". The quad kit has great belt wrap for the alternators. That is NOT the issue. However, even though you're running a Gates HD belt it's opening the tensioner up to its fullest point. So if you watch from 1:17 to 1:20 in the video, you can see how much the tensioner opens. Here is a picture you provided on the first non green back belt. However, it's the same length so it's irrelevant. Here is a picture of the tensioner open on our engine stand: Here is a screenshot from the video at 1:20: So basically, your tensioner is completely open and has no more "give". It doesn't mean that the alternators are slipping. It just goes to show how strong those alternators really are (takes power to make power).. but they may be slipping a little bit. I recorded a short video replicating what happens in the video. 13.5 volts isn't quite bad with that. If you want, play that same song and record on the side of the tensioner so I can watch it move. If you can also record your RPM drop on your engine that would be great. However, unless you can somehow "fit" a shorter belt on there, you may have to either find a stronger tensioner or simply deal with it.. The alternators are just doing that good of a job. Now only imagine how bad the belt stretch would've been without a HD belt. Take this at face value, I know a lot of the new tahoes have a economy system that actually turns off 4 cylinders of the engine depending on certain conditions to save fuel. When my 4 cylinder gets loaded down it sounds like a diesel engine because of all the fuel that's being thrown to the cylinders to compensate for the additional load. See this video for the sound and how it goes away when i unplug the alternator. It's really hard to tell what the exact issue is, but from the looks of the video, the tensioner is simply running out of "tension". That noise may be from the engine however trying to counter-act the drag on the engine. I hope this answers your question.
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