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Hey guys, I'm not really running a very high wattage system (Less than 1000w) but my car seems to have a hard time keeping up with it. The most noticeable thing is my RPMs always dipping down so low my car idles super rough. My alternator and battery are both very new, but not high output. Just a Duralast and standard alternator replacement. Is it normal that a pretty weak system would put an overwhelming load on my car, or does this indicate a problem in my electricals?

System is Focal Solid 600w amp and Sony Xplod "480w" amp (yeah right). The Sony is on my mids/highs.

Edited by Dylank811

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

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One thing I can suggest that will always help is the big 3 upgrade. I don't know to much about eletrcical otherwise so hopefully someone else can help you out.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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im running 1200 rms stock alt, duralast gold under the hood, and a red in the back. but my car already idles 600-700 rpm. when i upgraded to just the dg under the hood and big 3, before the second battery, i noticed a huge difference. voltage stayed better, and way more esponsive at recharging. id try to do a big 3 upgrade, see how that helps, then a bigger battery under the hood if need be. as far as your rpm dipping, if it does that with you car in park and stereo down all the way then i dont believe that has anything to do with your system.

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daily driver2 DD 9518i SC D.7

DD M4a 2 sets RF T165-2s (soon to be 3)

RF T400.4

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What kinda car/truck? I have a low charging system too tho, 12.8 volts! Haha the alternator took a shit on mine tho. But do the big three, somethin don't seem right because I doubt that those are RMS watts you gave us. Check for loose ground wires too

2003 GMC Yukon Denali

Alpine CDA 117

Redoing Mids/Highs

4 Runs of 1/0 Knukonceptz 2+, 2-

4 Deka 9A31's in back (Stock underhood) 250 amp Alt.

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Thanks for the help, I've heard alot about the big three but it honestly never crossed my mind. Haha bonehead. And no, it doesn't do it until big bass hits and I don't actually have park because it's a 5 speed haha. If you have the time, check out my last video. Those subs are gone now, but even that setup was dropping it to about 500 RPM. I'm about to throw considerably more power in the trunk though. It would be awesome if it killed my car! But yeah I'll look into the big 3 upgrade.

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

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Share on other sites

That video is in my build log btw.

And the RMS on my system in the video is 470w x 1 @ 2 ohms on my subs, and 160w x 2 @ 2 ohms. The last one is estimated because all I know is the Sony's RMS is 80 x 2 @ 4 ohms, but I'm running two speakers per channel.

It's a Nissan 200sx

Edited by Dylank811

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah if your going to put more power in, make sure you can if your having problems like this with lower power, also by any chance you know what Amperage your new alternator are at?

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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an easy start is the big 3, helps everything flow a little better and thats always good. beyond that, start with upgrading as money becomes available to a better battery up front, maybe even a larger group size if it will fit. not sure about your particular vehicle, but also changing the idle speed up 2-300rpms may make a noticeable impact on how many amps your stock alt puts out at idle

1969 Chevy Chevelle

20/22" staggered Bonspeed Huntingtons wrapped in Nitto INVO's

Mechman 250amp cs144 alt w/AVBM

Kinetik 1800 main battery/Kinetik 2400 in the trunk

Pioneer AVH-3200dvd Headunit

(2) sets of Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine components up front

(2) DD 3512's d4 coils

Sundown sax100.4 component amp

Sundown saz-3000d subwoofer amp

5ft^3 box tuned to 34hz

MY BUILD

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No, I don't know what it is. But it's from Advance Auto, so I'm sure it's nothing special haha.

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

an easy start is the big 3, helps everything flow a little better and thats always good. beyond that, start with upgrading as money becomes available to a better battery up front, maybe even a larger group size if it will fit. not sure about your particular vehicle, but also changing the idle speed up 2-300rpms may make a noticeable impact on how many amps your stock alt puts out at idle

Okay I'll look into changing the idle speed. Do you know of high output alternators that don't cost $550 a piece like Mechmans?

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

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