01VWGREENMACHINE Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 thanks a ton for all your help looks like ill be buying new subs and getting rid of mine grr ill be out a couple hundred bucks but if the dang store i bought them from told me what i needed to know i wouldn't be in this perdicament!!!!!! THANKS AGAIN!!! T1D412'S HERE I COME!! Quote http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 You're gonna love those D4's on that amp. Will the place you bought them not just trade them out for the D4 coil version? Quote Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01VWGREENMACHINE Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 You're gonna love those D4's on that amp. Will the place you bought them not just trade them out for the D4 coil version? that would be possible but issue is im past the 90 grace period and to ship these subs back would be out of my pocket and at almost 40 lbs each that would run me about 100 bucs =\ Quote http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJD3 Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 (edited) Dont the cp amps make the same power at 2 ohms and 1 ohm? In which case, while you would see some benefit of getting a 1 ohm load, I personally don't think it would be worth it. Edited August 10, 2011 by BJD3 Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01VWGREENMACHINE Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 ok now 2 things first is will it be worth all the trouble getting rid of these subs and buying new ones for only 77 rms watts more per sub??? prolly not in my book second thing is this morning i had a electrical burnt smell coming off the sub in side of the amp. it has never made this smell its not horible and i have not changed anything since i have installed on day one any ideas thanks Quote http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 The extra maybe 100 watts after rise each isnt going to amount to much...wire to two ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 ok now 2 things first is will it be worth all the trouble getting rid of these subs and buying new ones for only 77 rms watts more per sub??? prolly not in my book second thing is this morning i had a electrical burnt smell coming off the sub in side of the amp. it has never made this smell its not horible and i have not changed anything since i have installed on day one any ideas thanks Not worth it unless you're upgrading from what you have to something higher quality such as DC/AA/FI/IA, etc. Probably cooking coil...unless you mean the amp...then you could have burnt something up. Does everything still work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01VWGREENMACHINE Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 (edited) ok now 2 things first is will it be worth all the trouble getting rid of these subs and buying new ones for only 77 rms watts more per sub??? prolly not in my book second thing is this morning i had a electrical burnt smell coming off the sub in side of the amp. it has never made this smell its not horible and i have not changed anything since i have installed on day one any ideas thanks Not worth it unless you're upgrading from what you have to something higher quality such as DC/AA/FI/IA, etc. Probably cooking coil...unless you mean the amp...then you could have burnt something up. Does everything still work? everything works the same but like i said i never have smelt it before ill check ohms and stuff on my break in about an hour and the smell is only coming from the amp not the subs Edited August 10, 2011 by 01VWGREENMACHINE Quote http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01VWGREENMACHINE Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 (edited) ok i have check with a voltage meter i have 14.8 volts input power ground is good when i unplug the rcas from the amp and unhook the subs and touch the voltage meter to it and try to read the ohms it jumps all over the place for about 3 seconds then shuts the volt meter off. i also noticed when i have no music playing and no volume it crackles the subs when i adjust the bass nob. any ideas im thinking bad amp (take in mind no rcas are hooked up while i was testing this) also was thinking that if my amp has crapped out did it take out my subs so i hooked the voltage meter on ohms to each sub and im getting 3.7 ohms on each sub because there set at 4 ohm that should be good but i am not sure still learning alot this is my first big build! hehe thanks for all your help and support guys Edited August 10, 2011 by 01VWGREENMACHINE Quote http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
727Designs Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 You need to run each woofer at 1 ohm. Then run all the wires to the amp. The amp will then see two one ohm loads, which equals a two ohm load. So each sub will be receiving 884 watts RMS before rise. I hope this helps. Wrong. The channels are paralleled internally. It would be like the amp seeing a single .5 ohm load. Quote -Zach-2010 Toyota TundraFull Hybrid Audio SQ 7" BDS on 37's 2000 Ford Expedition 160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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