MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted August 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 second skin is slightly cheaper and a better product than dynamat. check them out. what brand alt and what is its output? there are a lot of cheap alt options that will actually be WORSE than your stock alt. we can make sure you dont get one of those. http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternators.com/shop/products/220a-Focus-Zetec-High-Output-Alternator.html Thats the brand and description oh ok. good choice. are you being for real? i cant tell sarcasm right now lol Mechman is a good choice. Also look into DC Power, and as mentioned earlier Singer Alternators. Mike does great work. On both of your comments: I contacted DC and he said he couldnt do it for a ford focus 2001. And I sent an email to Singer and will reply back whenever I get a response on what I am looking for. The idea of the H/O alternator was so that if I ever wanted to get a wall or get 2 12in FI BTL's, I can just upgrade and not have to worry about doing all this research while I am in the Army and such. I was just thinking ahead of the game Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 second skin is slightly cheaper and a better product than dynamat. check them out. what brand alt and what is its output? there are a lot of cheap alt options that will actually be WORSE than your stock alt. we can make sure you dont get one of those. http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternators.com/shop/products/220a-Focus-Zetec-High-Output-Alternator.html Thats the brand and description oh ok. good choice. are you being for real? i cant tell sarcasm right now lol Mechman is a good choice. Also look into DC Power, and as mentioned earlier Singer Alternators. Mike does great work. On both of your comments: I contacted DC and he said he couldnt do it for a ford focus 2001. And I sent an email to Singer and will reply back whenever I get a response on what I am looking for. The idea of the H/O alternator was so that if I ever wanted to get a wall or get 2 12in FI BTL's, I can just upgrade and not have to worry about doing all this research while I am in the Army and such. I was just thinking ahead of the game I won't say it wouldn't help to have one, but I'd cross that bridge when you get to it. You gotta be near your car to install and worry about an alternator anyway. Running a H/O alternator on a low amperage drawing system doesn't make sense. You'll wear out an alt before you actually even need it. Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted August 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 second skin is slightly cheaper and a better product than dynamat. check them out. what brand alt and what is its output? there are a lot of cheap alt options that will actually be WORSE than your stock alt. we can make sure you dont get one of those. http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternators.com/shop/products/220a-Focus-Zetec-High-Output-Alternator.html Thats the brand and description oh ok. good choice. are you being for real? i cant tell sarcasm right now lol Mechman is a good choice. Also look into DC Power, and as mentioned earlier Singer Alternators. Mike does great work. On both of your comments: I contacted DC and he said he couldnt do it for a ford focus 2001. And I sent an email to Singer and will reply back whenever I get a response on what I am looking for. The idea of the H/O alternator was so that if I ever wanted to get a wall or get 2 12in FI BTL's, I can just upgrade and not have to worry about doing all this research while I am in the Army and such. I was just thinking ahead of the game I won't say it wouldn't help to have one, but I'd cross that bridge when you get to it. You gotta be near your car to install and worry about an alternator anyway. Running a H/O alternator on a low amperage drawing system doesn't make sense. You'll wear out an alt before you actually even need it. I got this man. As I go along, I am adding little tidbits of stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 This is the setup that I am going with. It will be subject to change based on non-biased opinions and me going to a car audio show Sunday. Selenium D250-X 1" Phenolic Horn Driver 1-3/8"-18 TPI = $73.98 Selenium HL14-50 2" Exponential Horn 45x45 4-Bolt = 49.98 FI BL 12 = 836.80 Configure Speaker Ohm: dual 1 Hyper Pole: no Cooling: yes Flatwind: no Daily or SPL: daily Universal: no Dustcap: Chrome Coil Size: 4in Quantity: 2 Dynamat Xtreme 20' Trunk Kit 19405 = 105 Kicker ZX350.4 = 202.98 Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D = 368.98 Kicker DCK8 = 47.99 db Link CK2Z = 44.99 The Install Bay IB500 = 54.99 Kinetik HC 2000 = 533.96 Rockford Fosgate R1682 = 89.98 Pioneer AVH-P3300BT = 385.97 Vibe Audio Black Box Stereo(BlackBS2-V1) - 166.98 For Subwoofers - Ficaraudio.com For Loud Horns - PartsExpress.com alternator order - 400.00 - (email him a month before I come back down and tell him you need an alternator for a 230Amp alt for a 2001 Ford Focus with Zetec and that you talked to Matthew Williams about it) Larrys Extreme audio - 375.00 - box build Mark alternarot install - 75.00 Sound Workz Kustomz - 300.00 - battery install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 If you haven't already bought them I'd avoid that HU, door speakers, and subs. If you can give me a good enough reason for all 3 then I would gladly avoid it. keep in mind ive owned the 15in of the version and never had a problem Junk quality, sound like junk, and look like junk. If it looks like a turd, and smells like a turd... it's probably a turd. I liked the way mine hit perfectly fine. but if you have any other suggestions then by all means shoot them my way. i know what your thinking, i was there too when i ran kickers, i thought they sounded awesome. Then i picked up a DC level 4 15 and played it and my jaw dropped. Completely different sound, much deeper and more musical. its 90% install, 10% equipment when it comes to a "good" setup in the end. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 If you haven't already bought them I'd avoid that HU, door speakers, and subs. If you can give me a good enough reason for all 3 then I would gladly avoid it. keep in mind ive owned the 15in of the version and never had a problem Junk quality, sound like junk, and look like junk. If it looks like a turd, and smells like a turd... it's probably a turd. I liked the way mine hit perfectly fine. but if you have any other suggestions then by all means shoot them my way. i know what your thinking, i was there too when i ran kickers, i thought they sounded awesome. Then i picked up a DC level 4 15 and played it and my jaw dropped. Completely different sound, much deeper and more musical. its 90% install, 10% equipment when it comes to a "good" setup in the end. I read your post over and realized it wasnt to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autruche Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Wow... I don't even know what to say about half the shit that I read in this thread... DO NOT get that battery isolator. You should NOT be playing your system when the car isn't running, so there is no need for it. Who the fuck was saying he doesn't need a high output alternator for running over 2500 watts? WTF?... Personally I'd ditch that touch screen unit and get a nice single din that has a nice EQ. They make touch screen units for show, not for any type of quality sound. And for power wire pick up at least 35-40 feet of 0 gauge. REAL 0 gauge, not fucking eGay shit. You'll want enough to do your power run and to do the big 3. Need Test Tones/Sine Waves? Click Here!My Saab 9000 build1993 Saab 9000 Aero 5spdPioneer - Zapco - Hifonics - Sundown Audio - O2 Audio - RE AudioJust Say No To Rear SpeakersJust Say No To CCA WireReal Men Drive StickHit me up on Facebook, if you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winn Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 H/U = 269.95 Door Speakers = $73.98 Subwoofers = $279.90 2 Obsidian 12's would be about the same price, and MUCH better subs. I'm sure Pioneer has a good quality unit in that price, heck you can probably pick up a nice used unit on here or caco or somewhere for that. they have about 600rms... seems kinda like a downgrade to me also the car audio place... good price for them hooking that up? :FACEPALM: You know how you avoid that? Man the fuck up and bang her best friend sister mom cousin worst enemy and never look back. JUST SAY ANTI-AUDIOPIPE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 H/U = 269.95 Door Speakers = $73.98 Subwoofers = $279.90 2 Obsidian 12's would be about the same price, and MUCH better subs. I'm sure Pioneer has a good quality unit in that price, heck you can probably pick up a nice used unit on here or caco or somewhere for that. they have about 600rms... seems kinda like a downgrade to me also the car audio place... good price for them hooking that up? :FACEPALM: Something wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Wow... I don't even know what to say about half the shit that I read in this thread... DO NOT get that battery isolator. You should NOT be playing your system when the car isn't running, so there is no need for it. Who the fuck was saying he doesn't need a high output alternator for running over 2500 watts? WTF?... Personally I'd ditch that touch screen unit and get a nice single din that has a nice EQ. They make touch screen units for show, not for any type of quality sound. And for power wire pick up at least 35-40 feet of 0 gauge. REAL 0 gauge, not fucking eGay shit. You'll want enough to do your power run and to do the big 3. Isnt the battery isolator needed so that it doesnt discharge my car battery? also is this site any good? www.knukonceptz.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.