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Hey what's up y'all I got a question on if my ground is actually enough ground. Any ideas on improving it are welcome. Don't really want to have to drill through the floor to reach the frame but what are y'alls suggestions?

IMG_20110801_173837.jpg

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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is that bolt going into any thick piece of metal or just the seat frame thing? if that bolt is on that holds the seat in place then you should be good with just sanding the paint off where the ring terminal contacts the metal

1999 Audi A4 1.8T:::

4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order

Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually)

MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs

Boston S50 Components in Front

Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear

40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier

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UBL

1948 Plymouth

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Looks like you need to sand that spot down so you've got metal-to-metal contact. From the pic it looks like it's on painted metal, which I bet it is.

If it's a solid piece of metal that goes straight to the frame or that seats bolt into, you're fine.

EDIT: WAIT. PAUSE. Looks like that's the side of the car next to the door and it's plastic. And the bolt is the only thing making contact with the ring terminal. If this is the case, you should probably find a new spot for the ground where it's touching some bare metal.

Edited by Maxim

wtf is lolcats?

I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers.

I was hoping for 150 :(.

I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt

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The bolt is going through the seat frame (painted metal maybe 1/8" thick) and the bolt is then threaded into metal that is 1/2" thick. I don't think its the frame but ill try and get some pics. Its 9pm here but if I can't grab some tonight ill get some in the mornin. Looks to be aluminum that its threaded into to but I am gonna have to sand it down tomorrow. Also the hole its threaded into is all the way through like I can see the ground

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Ok update on some pics. Just went out in the driveway and took the bolt out of the seats.

Just after removal and before cleaning:

IMG_20110817_212430.jpg

After cleaning:

IMG_20110817_213056.jpg

Look through (flash light is underneath the truck):

IMG_20110817_213106.jpg

Over top view of everything:

IMG_20110817_213430.jpg

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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that should be a good spot to ground it. just sand/grind the paint off the area where the ring terminal makes contact with the metal and clean the surface rust off the washer too and you should be good

1999 Audi A4 1.8T:::

4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order

Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually)

MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs

Boston S50 Components in Front

Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear

40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier

Build Thread

UBL

1948 Plymouth

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Should be fine I never used it in my tahoe cause it always had black sticky stuff on the threads.

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

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First thing in the mornin ill remove the rust off the bolt and washer:

IMG_20110817_215120.jpg

Then I will move on with some sanding blocks and sand paper and get that paint gone around where the bolt contacts it. Thanks for the help everyone its been helpful for sure

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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I used some "Carb & choke" cleaner to clean any oil off

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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