DC audio 5.0k clamp results

[kickass audio]

If someone is in the market for a DC Audio 5.0k amplifier then look here for the results i got out of my 5.0k.

I am running just one of these amps up to my single AA SMD 18" dual 1 ohm sub in a 5.5 cubic foot box tuned to 30Hz. The test was made with my sub wired in parallel to achieve a nominal impedance of .5 ohms and the battery voltage was 13.7v. The clamp results are as follows:

30Hz tone: 1454.583 watts at 1.41 ohms

35Hz tone: 2525.54 watts at 1.63 ohms

40Hz tone: 4061.64 watts at 1.37 ohms

45Hz tone: 5291.84 watts at .976 ohms

50Hz tone: 5161.32 watts at .971 ohms

55Hz tone: 5215.0 watts at .939 ohms

60Hz tone: 4778.4 watts at .912 ohms

Average impedance rise and wattage from 30-60Hz: 4096.76 watts at 1.173 ohms

Overall i am really satisfied with my DC 5.0k even though the low end tones have less power than my old amp (two Massive Audio DB8000's strapped at .5 ohms nominal) but the higher notes have a lot more power and the clarity of my 5.0k is amazing. With my DB8000's the clarity was alright but the bass was really punchy, with the 5.0k the bass seems to have a slower run off and a more even tone. Plus with this amp, it doesnt get warm at all when my engine is running, if i bump the amp at around half volume with the truck off for a total of 3 hours (i sit in the parking lot at class until my next night class starts) only one half of the amp is warm but its not enough to burn you like my old DB8000's.

[Gabriel Ruiz]

thanks for the post,very informative

[Gabriel Ruiz]

what was your start and end voltage?

[kickass audio]

Youre welcome man. I have all DC amps in my 'voy and i love it. The sq from them is amazing. Also just to put it in here to make everyone aware, the 5.0k does click when you turn it on. This is 100% normal as there are two big relays inside it that engage when the remote wire is applied voltage so dont be alarmed if you have this happen, it is perfectly normal.

I will try to upload guts pics of the amp on here in a sec too but it may not work well since im mobile.

[kickass audio]

Start voltage: 14.6v at the very beginning of the burps, then 14.5v after the alt got warm.

ending voltage: 13.7v after a 5 second burst per frequency.

There wouldnt have been any voltage drop if i was revving my engine up but it was sitting at idle which is barely 500 rpm's so i cant say crap about the voltage falling down that low. If i could sucker someone to sit in the truck when i burp it, i would rev it up to 1800 and clamp it, im sure id get even more power out of it at a full 14.5v.

[Purplehaze]

If i could sucker someone to sit in the truck when i burp it, i would rev it up to 1800 and clamp it, im sure id get even more power out of it at a full 14.5v.

I always just use a penny. Works perfect! I just put the penny in the throttle stop on the intake, instantly goes to 2000 RPM. Then when I'm done, take the penny out, and bam! Back to regular idle. Or if I want less I use a dime.

[armykyle1]

not bad results but i don't like the lack of power on the lows

[Ray]

Your db8000's got hot??

Wow

Mine run cold even at .17

Crazy

[kickass audio]

Yea i wont mess with that because my truck is drive by wire. Meaning i have no throttle cable to pull or adjust, its all done electronically. The last time i played with my butterfly on my throttle body i made the damn engine misfire and threw a check engine code.

[kickass audio]

For the lack of power i think its just my enclosure doing it. For my old amps i got from Ray, i clamped 2794.5w at 1.38 ohms for a 30Hz burp. The amp is supposed to do 4kw at 1 ohms strapped so it had a good amount of loss. I really cant say its my amp or enclosure because ill be damned if im going to junk my enclosure just to try and play around with it. Either way if you sit in my truck when im burping you would swear its putting out more power than it clamped at.