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Adding a 2nd battery


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just run them in parallel, unless you plan on using your system with the car off. And for 2500rms all you need is a little battery, like a hc800 or a similar XS power. I personally wouldnt use yellow tops due to the fact i have seen too many go bad quick, but i have not used one personally.

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Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

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i have an isolator and what you do is wire the positive sides of the batteries to the posts marked "batt A, batt B" (one terminal to one post, the other terminal to the other post) then you run a wire usually off the center post labeled ign (or similar) to a switched 12+ like your ignition wire. thats what i did oh! and make sure that wherever you mount the isolator is ground down to bare metal because thats how it grounds itself.

hope this helps!

jarrid

Edited by 95legwagon

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

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i have an isolator and what you do is wire the positive sides of the batteries to the posts marked "batt A, batt B" (one terminal to one post, the other terminal to the other post) then you run a wire usually off the center post labeled ign (or similar) to a switched 12+ like your ignition wire. thats what i did oh! and make sure that wherever you mount the isolator is ground down to bare metal because thats how it grounds itself.

hope this helps!

jarrid

Thanks for the tip. What size isolator would you use?

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just run them in parallel, unless you plan on using your system with the car off. And for 2500rms all you need is a little battery, like a hc800 or a similar XS power. I personally wouldnt use yellow tops due to the fact i have seen too many go bad quick, but i have not used one personally.

I plan on running it with the car off sometimes (like when waiting for someone w/ the volume down). Isnt it also possible to just ground the 2nd battery and run the power wire to the monoblock?

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I plan on running it with the car off sometimes (like when waiting for someone w/ the volume down). Isnt it also possible to just ground the 2nd battery and run the power wire to the monoblock?

Would you hook the battery up to the alternator or would you just have it in the vehicle hooked up to the amp?

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