9515ROB Posted October 3, 2011 Report Posted October 3, 2011 I have my car walled with 8 10s. It seems the top passenger side and top middle subs have a loading issues because i keep breaking the joint where the cone attaches to the coil. It seems like it is the top passenger side one more than the middle but i replaced the middle one the other week and noticed it is starting to rip its self apart to. How should i go about with fixing this without building a new baffle. Here is a pic of my wall. It is before i had the port in so dont say its because i have no port - 1998 Ford Mustang - Time to rebuild. 4 15s and alot of power TEAM DTF
n8ball2013 Posted October 3, 2011 Report Posted October 3, 2011 whats your port look like. do you haev a pic showing that? itll help. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
dwright27 Posted October 3, 2011 Report Posted October 3, 2011 Remove port. And put pieces between subs to prevent cross directional loading. Round the part where the top meets baffle and where side meets top and baffle in that corner. 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer
9515ROB Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Posted October 3, 2011 whats your port look like. do you haev a pic showing that? itll help. hold on i will go take a picture - 1998 Ford Mustang - Time to rebuild. 4 15s and alot of power TEAM DTF
9515ROB Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Posted October 3, 2011 Its not done yet so dont make fun of how it looks - 1998 Ford Mustang - Time to rebuild. 4 15s and alot of power TEAM DTF
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