MuRKRoW Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 DO NOT REPLACE THE CAP! Just get rid of it completely. A idle, you should be reading at least 13.5V, but normally you should be sitting between 13.8-14.8V EDIT: Take a meter and measure across your battery. Then measure from you alternator+ to the engine block. If you are measuring much higher at the alt+ than you are at the battery, make sure all your grounds and power wires are nice and clean and tight. I was measuring 14.5 off the alt to block and 13.3 on the battery due to problems with grounds at one point When im idling i'm reading 14.+, when im just playing a bass boosted song. I went to a car audio specialist he told me that it was the capacitor. To tell you, my brother just gave me the capacitor. The cap I guess 5 year old. Haha. I just seek some advice here before i buy a new cap. Honestly I don't think you know a whole lot about car audio and electricity if you're planning on replacing the capacitor. The capacitor will be continually drawing power to recharge because it does not store power. Replace that capacitor with a battery in the back of your car. Did you meter the voltage on the positive and negative inputs of the amplifier? You should have around 14 volts at the amplifier when the engine is running and around 12 volts when the engine is off. Where is your amplifier grounded to? What size gauge wire are you using? What kind of car do you have? No one can really help you until you answer some more questions about what is going on... And replacing the capacitor is the worst idea i've ever heard... Jesus 9 volts with Just 1 l7? I bet it's the cap. With my l7 even if I were trying I don't think I could get it that low and ihave completely stock electrical The sub isn't what is drawing current. yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit. K you have no idea what you're talking about. Kicker L7 8's, 10's, and 12's have a 1500watt power rating meaning they can handle that much power from the amplifier. Kicker L7 15's have a 2000watt power rating. The subs don't control the wattage that an amplifier can produce... The amplifier controls how much power is sent to the sub. You should actually know what you're saying before you falsely inform someone else. I think this is why most car audio problems exist... Quote Sound Solutions Audio ZCON 18 Crescendo Audio BC3500D JVC KD-R80BT headunit Alpine/Pioneer mids & highs 4 group 34 agm batteries Knukonceptz 3x0ga. terminals Kicker/XS Power 0ga. wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) DO NOT REPLACE THE CAP! Just get rid of it completely. A idle, you should be reading at least 13.5V, but normally you should be sitting between 13.8-14.8V EDIT: Take a meter and measure across your battery. Then measure from you alternator+ to the engine block. If you are measuring much higher at the alt+ than you are at the battery, make sure all your grounds and power wires are nice and clean and tight. I was measuring 14.5 off the alt to block and 13.3 on the battery due to problems with grounds at one point When im idling i'm reading 14.+, when im just playing a bass boosted song. I went to a car audio specialist he told me that it was the capacitor. To tell you, my brother just gave me the capacitor. The cap I guess 5 year old. Haha. I just seek some advice here before i buy a new cap. Honestly I don't think you know a whole lot about car audio and electricity if you're planning on replacing the capacitor. The capacitor will be continually drawing power to recharge because it does not store power. Replace that capacitor with a battery in the back of your car. Did you meter the voltage on the positive and negative inputs of the amplifier? You should have around 14 volts at the amplifier when the engine is running and around 12 volts when the engine is off. Where is your amplifier grounded to? What size gauge wire are you using? What kind of car do you have? No one can really help you until you answer some more questions about what is going on... And replacing the capacitor is the worst idea i've ever heard... Jesus 9 volts with Just 1 l7? I bet it's the cap. With my l7 even if I were trying I don't think I could get it that low and ihave completely stock electrical The sub isn't what is drawing current. yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit. K you have no idea what you're talking about. Kicker L7 8's, 10's, and 12's have a 1500watt power rating meaning they can handle that much power from the amplifier. Kicker L7 15's have a 2000watt power rating. The subs don't control the wattage that an amplifier can produce... The amplifier controls how much power is sent to the sub. You should actually know what you're saying before you falsely inform someone else. I think this is why most car audio problems exist... lmao ohhhh the irony in your post. first off there is a difference between 2000 max and 2000 rms. if you want to throw 2000 rms at a l7 go ahead make sure to record it too i bet it wont last more then 20 sec if that. second lets take a trip to good ol' kickers web site My link the 8's take 450 rms 900 peak. 10's take 600 rms 1200 peak 12's take 750 rms 1500 peak 15's take 1000 rms and 2000 peak. and last subs do somewhat control what the amp pushes out ( ever heard of ohm load?) so please take your own advice and actually know what your talking about before you go around talking about stuff you know nothing about also, try to not be such a dick to the person asking for help he obviously doesnt know what a capacitor does so dont flame him for having false info. Edited October 6, 2011 by new guy Quote *current* 1991 honda crx si 2 skar audio 12s pioneer 6.5s dual 400 watt amp audio technix db 1/0 wiring kit. dual head unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuRKRoW Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 lmao ohhhh the irony in your post. first off there is a difference between 2000 max and 2000 rms. if you want to throw 2000 rms at a l7 go ahead make sure to record it too i bet it wont last more then 20 sec if that. second lets take a trip to good ol' kickers web site My link the 8's take 450 rms 900 peak. 10's take 600 rms 1200 peak 12's take 750 rms 1500 peak 15's take 1000 rms and 2000 peak. and last subs do somewhat control what the amp pushes out ( ever heard of ohm load?) so please take your own advice and actually know what your talking about before you go around talking about stuff you know nothing aboutalso, try to not be such a dick to the person asking for help he obviously doesnt know what a capacitor does so dont flame him for having false info. Maybe the new '11 line of L7's. And yes I said the max wattage that they can handle. I was not talking about the rms. And why would that sub give him a 1000 watt limit? Please explain this to me. If an amplifier, lets say Kicker ZX2500 which is stable at 2ohms has a Dual 4ohm Kicker L7 15 sub hooked up to it. The amplifier is still capable of putting out 2500 watts rms to this sub. Yes the ohm load does matter, but what you were referring to is that the amplifier cannot put out any more power than what the sub can handle rms which is completely untrue. I was not attempting to be a dick to him but if I was, then sry. The point that I wanted to get across is that capacitors are basically a gimmick for audio companies. The companies put some flashy LED's on them and sometimes a voltage display and claim that they stop voltage drop, when in reality they do nothing but make more problems. But to be honest, the most voltage drop I had from a stock battery and stock alternator was going from 14.4volts to 12.1volts and I was drawing 160amps of power. Now I draw 300amps of power from 2 deep cycle batteries and a stock alternator and only drop from 14.4volts to 14.2 or 14.1volts. There must be a bad connection between the battery and the amplifier or the battery is bad. Double check everything... Quote Sound Solutions Audio ZCON 18 Crescendo Audio BC3500D JVC KD-R80BT headunit Alpine/Pioneer mids & highs 4 group 34 agm batteries Knukonceptz 3x0ga. terminals Kicker/XS Power 0ga. wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) lmao ohhhh the irony in your post. first off there is a difference between 2000 max and 2000 rms. if you want to throw 2000 rms at a l7 go ahead make sure to record it too i bet it wont last more then 20 sec if that. second lets take a trip to good ol' kickers web site My link the 8's take 450 rms 900 peak. 10's take 600 rms 1200 peak 12's take 750 rms 1500 peak 15's take 1000 rms and 2000 peak. and last subs do somewhat control what the amp pushes out ( ever heard of ohm load?) so please take your own advice and actually know what your talking about before you go around talking about stuff you know nothing aboutalso, try to not be such a dick to the person asking for help he obviously doesnt know what a capacitor does so dont flame him for having false info. Maybe the new '11 line of L7's. And yes I said the max wattage that they can handle. I was not talking about the rms. And why would that sub give him a 1000 watt limit? Please explain this to me. If an amplifier, lets say Kicker ZX2500 which is stable at 2ohms has a Dual 4ohm Kicker L7 15 sub hooked up to it. The amplifier is still capable of putting out 2500 watts rms to this sub. Yes the ohm load does matter, but what you were referring to is that the amplifier cannot put out any more power than what the sub can handle rms which is completely untrue. I was not attempting to be a dick to him but if I was, then sry. The point that I wanted to get across is that capacitors are basically a gimmick for audio companies. The companies put some flashy LED's on them and sometimes a voltage display and claim that they stop voltage drop, when in reality they do nothing but make more problems. But to be honest, the most voltage drop I had from a stock battery and stock alternator was going from 14.4volts to 12.1volts and I was drawing 160amps of power. Now I draw 300amps of power from 2 deep cycle batteries and a stock alternator and only drop from 14.4volts to 14.2 or 14.1volts. There must be a bad connection between the battery and the amplifier or the battery is bad. Double check everything... well if he has a sub thats only capable of taking 1000 watts and hes sending more then 1200 watts to it then this thread would be about how he blew his sub i wasnt saying because of the sub his amp is unable to put out that much power. i was saying hes not sending 2k watts to a 1000 sub, that hes only capable of putting out around 1000 watts before blowing his sub and he obviously hasnt blown his sub so id say its safe to assume he not putting much more then 1000 to his system. but its all good bro i get what your saying. let not thread jack anymore then we already have Edited October 6, 2011 by new guy Quote *current* 1991 honda crx si 2 skar audio 12s pioneer 6.5s dual 400 watt amp audio technix db 1/0 wiring kit. dual head unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdblue Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 lmao ohhhh the irony in your post. first off there is a difference between 2000 max and 2000 rms. if you want to throw 2000 rms at a l7 go ahead make sure to record it too i bet it wont last more then 20 sec if that. second lets take a trip to good ol' kickers web site My link the 8's take 450 rms 900 peak. 10's take 600 rms 1200 peak 12's take 750 rms 1500 peak 15's take 1000 rms and 2000 peak. and last subs do somewhat control what the amp pushes out ( ever heard of ohm load?) so please take your own advice and actually know what your talking about before you go around talking about stuff you know nothing aboutalso, try to not be such a dick to the person asking for help he obviously doesnt know what a capacitor does so dont flame him for having false info. Maybe the new '11 line of L7's. And yes I said the max wattage that they can handle. I was not talking about the rms. And why would that sub give him a 1000 watt limit? Please explain this to me. If an amplifier, lets say Kicker ZX2500 which is stable at 2ohms has a Dual 4ohm Kicker L7 15 sub hooked up to it. The amplifier is still capable of putting out 2500 watts rms to this sub. Yes the ohm load does matter, but what you were referring to is that the amplifier cannot put out any more power than what the sub can handle rms which is completely untrue. I was not attempting to be a dick to him but if I was, then sry. The point that I wanted to get across is that capacitors are basically a gimmick for audio companies. The companies put some flashy LED's on them and sometimes a voltage display and claim that they stop voltage drop, when in reality they do nothing but make more problems. But to be honest, the most voltage drop I had from a stock battery and stock alternator was going from 14.4volts to 12.1volts and I was drawing 160amps of power. Now I draw 300amps of power from 2 deep cycle batteries and a stock alternator and only drop from 14.4volts to 14.2 or 14.1volts. There must be a bad connection between the battery and the amplifier or the battery is bad. Double check everything... capacitors do have a purpose, just sometimes in a system they cause problems...and are these actual readings you've taken? because you should never compare your own setup to somebody elses. just because you don't see that much voltage drop, doesn't mean he is doing something wrong. there is a whole lot of misinformation in this thread. and if I were OP, I would ask to have it locked up. Quote AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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