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Power and Peak Frequency Change


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That´s always a HUGE advantage, i dunno why people (not talking about you) think that buying a TL it´s just for comps or something like that, man , once i bought my TL i had the first huge tool to get me really loud, after that, i bought a clamp meter and got even louder, someone stole it from me though :(

I´m the SPL Gains topic creator!! wanna get louder?? check this: SPL Gains. Panamenian 2009 & 2010 & 2014 Bass Race 149.9 Champion!

2 15" subs and a 2K wired at 1 ohm, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167788-fecupe2001-2-15s-on-a-2k-video-on-page-3/

8 Massive 15" subs and small power, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179296-fecupe2001s-8-15s-4th-order-bandpass-wall/

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As little as 1" of enclosure movement changes everything in my car! Yes swapping amps can affect everything as stated before each amp has its preferred freq to make power and it is highly doubtful you will get the amps setting the same for both crossover points and gain settings.

TEAM FLEX ISSUES, TEAM DC AUDIO

2010 California State Finals Champion MECA AS2

2011 California State Champion Meca S2

2011 California State Record holder Meca S2

2012 Meca Mod 4 class 152.5 and rising

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ok let me see if i can explain this right yes power can change you freq by alot if your going from lil power to big power now the resone when you have low power it takes more power to burb at 35 hz then at 55 hz cause the sub does not have to move as much at 55hz so on lil power the higher freq will be your peak but on big power you peak should be a lot closer to your tunning freq being that not relying on efficiency

now when you already have big power and going bigger then you freq should stay the same or be differnt by a few hz

ive also seen "peaky" boxes that play just one freq really loud and other freqs play ike meh become not peaky and play everything really well with added power also these peaky boxes went from a peak of 48hz to a peak of 36hz with added power just vaildating my low power statment

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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I found out best most accurate way to find peak freq is to burp at half volume or less in the mid 130db range. Start off at 32hz and without reving the engine or touching any knobs play the freq for 2-3sec then switch to next one and do the same you need a tl of course and set it a peak hold and u will see where it peaks and were it drops

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

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I found out best most accurate way to find peak freq is to burp at half volume or less in the mid 130db range. Start off at 32hz and without reving the engine or touching any knobs play the freq for 2-3sec then switch to next one and do the same you need a tl of course and set it a peak hold and u will see where it peaks and were it drops

that works some times but then my low power thing comes into play i have seen it on many many differnt builds where half power had a peak at one freq and full power had a differnt peak and that was just cause it took less power at 50 hz to get the sub playing loud then it did at 35 hz i test at 3/4 volume now this is not a rule because ive also seen the way dc98hoe does work as well

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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