97Jetta1637 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I've been toying with the idea of an Adjustable Sub Box. I see that there is one on ebay, but that's for dual 12's and can't hold two different sub types. I've made a rough detail of my idea on AutoCAD2012 (a program which enables architecture and design) where the box, is 42"x24"x16", with 1" think material. I don't currently have photos of it, but I'm still working on the final product and will take screenshots when done. The box itself looks like a vented box. There is a 3"x22"x1" square hole in the middle, like a vented box, and the whole interior is gutted. Why you ask, because the wall inside of the box is the adjustable part. On my rough detail currently the box is adjustable between 9 different sizes (all sizes now are for the INSIDE of the box, so measurements at 2" shorter than outside). 17.5"x22"x14" / 16.5"x22"x14" / 15.5"x22"x14" / 14.5"x22"x14" / 13.5"x22"x14" / 12.5"x22"x14" / 11.5"x22"x14" / 10.5"x22"x14" / 9.5"x22"x14". As you can see by the math, the box can hold anywhere from a 8" sub to a 15" sub. With the inside wall, where the vent is, that is movable; that also means it has varying cubic footage inside. I did this for the occasion, a person that has two different subs, for example. One, 12" Pioneer and one, 15" Kicker, both have completely different needs for a box, and both are different sizes. With the adjustable wall on the inside, the box can hold the Pioneer with plenty of room, and on the other side of the box, the Kicker is in comfort, at max size, which is roughly 3.2 CU.ft. Another problem I ran into, the box itself. I had to make two boxes inside of one, each one is a ported box, with a plastic cover that is 1/8" thick so it can release air, and allow minimal battle between the two subs themselves. The port on the "two" boxes are faced towards the vent so it can release the air. Now, the final problem I ran into, how the h*ll do I make it adjustable? Well, the walls both have a piece of rope roughly 4" long, so you can take both side panels off, and pull or push the wall into pre-drilled screw holes. There are 2 screw holes on each side, for each size. So, that's a total of 8 screws, for each side, or 16 screws for dual subs; but with 18 options, and 16 screws for one box, that can add up to be a total of 288 total holes. This is where I came up with the idea, solid rubber tubes. Eventually people get rid of subs and get new ones. So they'll need to readjust the wall. With the rubber tubes, they're 1" long, they fit the slot where the screw used to be, and all you do it duct tape over it once the tube is inside, simple fix. Now that I've done everything I could think of to iron out the wrinkles; I ask you guys/gals this, what kinks do you see I don't? I'm not perfect, and never will be, but I've been contemplating about this idea for about a month and finally put it into motion on AutoCAD. I'm looking for all outside help I can receive because eventually, I'd like to try this idea out in my car. Thank you in advance for the advise. P.S. It's difficult to explain the way the box looks due to the complex nature of making an adjustable box, all the while it being a ported and vented box. The 3d model I currently have makes it look actually somewhat plausible; but this being my first take on it, there's always the possibility of it failing. Quote #teamihop Two 12 inch DC XL's Carbon Fiber Cap Stetsom 7k Shell of box / baffle built by me Port / sealing the box by John Hone Fuck midrange Alpine-9886 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177428-97jettas-sql-trunk-wall-loudest-99-buick-century-custom-with-a-one-legged-owner/ price has no influence on how something sounds I told him to move the fucking port. they see me hoppin they stoppin they can't believe im so white and dirty It looks like you got so drunk, that someone came up and stole your leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) how are you going to be able to change the size of the port? also, why would you want two completely different woofers in one car? edit: i understand what you're saying, but this whole idea seems like it would be A LOT more trouble than it will be worth in the end. Edited October 6, 2011 by Kranny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97Jetta1637 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) how are you going to be able to change the size of the port? also, why would you want two completely different woofers in one car? edit: i understand what you're saying, but this whole idea seems like it would be A LOT more trouble than it will be worth in the end. I personally don't want two different subs in one car, but I have friends at school who had that problem at one time. I just threw that example in there for a poor mans box. The main idea of it is so you don't have to make a whole new box, unless the subs literally, will not work in the space I designed. I suppose it would be more trouble in the short run; but if someone isn't doing it for competitions, and just using it as a normal everyday dual box it could be beneficial for whenever they need to get another sub. As for the port, I truthfully never thought about it . Edited October 6, 2011 by 97Jetta1637 Quote #teamihop Two 12 inch DC XL's Carbon Fiber Cap Stetsom 7k Shell of box / baffle built by me Port / sealing the box by John Hone Fuck midrange Alpine-9886 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177428-97jettas-sql-trunk-wall-loudest-99-buick-century-custom-with-a-one-legged-owner/ price has no influence on how something sounds I told him to move the fucking port. they see me hoppin they stoppin they can't believe im so white and dirty It looks like you got so drunk, that someone came up and stole your leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHEVY4X4BLAZER Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I've thought about this too. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Make a removable port like the one steve meade has so you can tweak with the port area / length and secure it with t-nuts Then get some 14 inch MDF circles, and a 12 inch cutout for your box. Cut the MDF circle to the cutout of the sub so you have an MDF ring. Secure the ring to the box using T-nuts then screw the sub into the ring. If you get a 10 inch sub or another 12 with a different cutout, toss the olf mdf ring and make a new one to fit. Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mha Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Any links to the ebay one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Cool concept on paper, but from what I've seen on here and designed myself it's nowhere near the same as a box designed and built proper for a specific sub and vehicle. Quote wtf is lolcats? I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers. I was hoping for 150 . I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97Jetta1637 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 @SnowDrifter This isn't for my subs, currently I have a 15" P1 fosgate and waiting on currency for the other, but this idea was constructed due to a friend of mine having two different subs and wanting to box them together. I'm also working on the port area now, my idea with that is, when the wall is removed completely (the adjustable part) you can work it just like a regular port. you can remove it and adjust it, but you will have to make the port length attachable to the port that is currently built it, in order for it to be tweaked so the plastic piece doesn't need to be removed. Some feedback would be appreciated on the port since this is all a build from scratch and there's no information about it. @Mha I just google searched, adjustable box. @Maxim This is true, a self made box is better, but it's like everything else, people are generally lazy. They don't know how to construct a box or want to be taught, so they will always buy one. Quote #teamihop Two 12 inch DC XL's Carbon Fiber Cap Stetsom 7k Shell of box / baffle built by me Port / sealing the box by John Hone Fuck midrange Alpine-9886 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177428-97jettas-sql-trunk-wall-loudest-99-buick-century-custom-with-a-one-legged-owner/ price has no influence on how something sounds I told him to move the fucking port. they see me hoppin they stoppin they can't believe im so white and dirty It looks like you got so drunk, that someone came up and stole your leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97Jetta1637 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Untitled Topview Insidebox Halfbox This is what I am currently looking at, with my design. Quote #teamihop Two 12 inch DC XL's Carbon Fiber Cap Stetsom 7k Shell of box / baffle built by me Port / sealing the box by John Hone Fuck midrange Alpine-9886 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177428-97jettas-sql-trunk-wall-loudest-99-buick-century-custom-with-a-one-legged-owner/ price has no influence on how something sounds I told him to move the fucking port. they see me hoppin they stoppin they can't believe im so white and dirty It looks like you got so drunk, that someone came up and stole your leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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