max.krupski Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 hi everyone im new here and i have come to a problem that i can't seem to fix. I have two 1/0 gauge wires that need to be fuse, two 4 gauge wires that need to be fused, 0ne 4 gauge wire non fused and one 8 gauge wire none fused these wires all are going to the positive terminal and it looks like Medusa's head lol. I have now bought a red cap and it has two positive terminals. so here is the question what is the nicest way to set this up? I was looking for a fused distribution box for two 1/0 gauge and two 4 gauge but I cant find one anywhere. Does anybody know where i can get one or what else would look nice? p.s. this is going under the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) hi everyone im new here and i have come to a problem that i can't seem to fix. I have two 1/0 gauge wires that need to be fuse, two 4 gauge wires that need to be fused, 0ne 4 gauge wire non fused and one 8 gauge wire none fused these wires all are going to the positive terminal and it looks like Medusa's head lol. I have now bought a red cap and it has two positive terminals. so here is the question what is the nicest way to set this up? I was looking for a fused distribution box for two 1/0 gauge and two 4 gauge but I cant find one anywhere. Does anybody know where i can get one or what else would look nice? p.s. this is going under the hood. I love the look of a lot of wires going to the batteries, I have mine like that, I think I have about 8 positive wires, 2 1/0 gauge, and 6 4 guage, and like the same for neg One option is to build bus bars, which are just copper bars that go on your terminals, and then you have more places to connect stuff These pics show how mine is, love it like this!! Edited October 27, 2011 by dereileak Quote 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK99 Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) hi everyone im new here and i have come to a problem that i can't seem to fix. I have two 1/0 gauge wires that need to be fuse, two 4 gauge wires that need to be fused, 0ne 4 gauge wire non fused and one 8 gauge wire none fused these wires all are going to the positive terminal and it looks like Medusa's head lol. I have now bought a red cap and it has two positive terminals. so here is the question what is the nicest way to set this up? I was looking for a fused distribution box for two 1/0 gauge and two 4 gauge but I cant find one anywhere. Does anybody know where i can get one or what else would look nice? p.s. this is going under the hood. Can I ask why you have all that wire? What for? Are you running these wires to a battery in the back? Little more info on you're setup If you have a Battery in the back just run the two 1/0 runs back to the battery and use a distribution block from there. Try this My link Edited October 27, 2011 by DK99 Quote Hi SMD Members If anybody has computer problems and is an SMD member with at least 150 posts I will fix your problems for free by phone support or I can also fix your computer over the internet.... I have references such as All State insurance, Nationwide Insurance and much more... just p.m me for help.. I am not the greatest with when it comes to audio systems so I figured I could contribute to the forum this way.... Thanks David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max.krupski Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) ok one 1/0 is for the amps in the back 120amp fuse one 1/0 is for alternator 150amp fuse two 4 gauge for two oem amps I believe one is 200amp fuse and one is 120amp fuse another 4 gauge unknown and 0ne 8 gauge unknown this is in my baby 2010 ford fusion sport awd and it has a a factory premium sony system in there 12 speakers 2 amps 390rms in the back i got one JL 1000/1v2 soon to be two of them and two 12in hertz 300D 500rms each, soon to be eight 8inch subs not sure of brand yet thinking of JLW7 there any thing else??? Edited October 27, 2011 by max.krupski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 4 gauge for two oem amps as in factory? and you have a run of 4 and 8 gauge that you dont know what they are for? you got gap coverage? Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max.krupski Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 gunna go talk to ford and find what those wires are i'll be back to update in a bit and why would i need gap coverage ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 Why do you need Ford? Just follow the wires and see where they go. Pretty easy to figure out. Are you replacing factory wires? Or just trying to figure out how to hook them to your new battery? Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 i made some copper plates that you screw to the battery terminal then the plate has four threaded holes for your ring terminals. makes it look a lot nicer and a ton easier to work on. but they only work if you have a battery without posts. im not using them anymore and i have tons of materials to make more if you want some. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extremeauto Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 gunna go talk to ford and find what those wires are i'll be back to update in a bit and why would i need gap coverage ????? im a bit slow today but it sounds like the frnt batt... best thing i could tell u is to get a 0 gauge fused link and run it to a distribution block ....then to you wires...the 4 gauge (if this is the frnt batt) would be pcm wire,alt wire & the pcm or fuse-box wire...the alt should have a inline fuse already (and you need to run 0 gauge frm batt to alt with a fuse) pcm/fuse box should already be fused & the starter wire does not need to be fused(i have not seen 1 starter fused in the 20 years i have been messing with cars)...gap insurance is a insurance policy you can get through most dealers when you buy a car that will pay of the loan no matter what you do to the car that totals it...ie wreck,ELECTRICAL FIRE,or any thing else that would put you with out a car....lol Quote 1995 Honda passport 3.2 4x4 Frankenstein on a budget ballistics sound deader (roof only so far) kenwood mp3 usb audio control 3 (upgrading) hifonics mx-3 3 sets of massive px5 5.25s 3 sets of massive tweets phonix gold 5.25 componets x2 massive nx4 nano 200x4 mids sony xplod 600x4 watt high's 2 Fi bl fully loaded box walled @31ish hz 13.2 cube box/wall massive DB8000 Excessive amaperge 250 amp alt wir extrnl regulator daul runs of xs power xpflex 0 gauge big 3 raptor 0 gauge power/ground wire full run suriken 45 amp hour x3 shriken bt-120 batts,interstate 1100CA semi batt scytek galaxy 2way alarm still upgradeing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max.krupski Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 Why do you need Ford? Just follow the wires and see where they go. Pretty easy to figure out. Are you replacing factory wires? Or just trying to figure out how to hook them to your new battery? i went to ford cause i have lifetime warranty and i have to abide by some of their rules. and im doing a few things here ive done the big three 1/0 power to amp 4 gauge but goin to 1/0 and new battery the set-up ford had to hold two fuses doesn't fit for this battery so i have to come up with something new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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