OrionStang Posted November 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Pics of box design? Your just diong sub forward port forward right? Goin to be a tight fit. Can you rear mount the sub through the box from the trunk maybe No, going back to sub/port back. I don't have a box design yet, not designing it until I get the sub and run specs through my woofer tester. But, I need to be able to fit a box 13" high through that opening, there is no way to get a proper box through the trunk. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 I built a 1.7 cf for my lvl 5 12" after I built my 2.3 cf box for it and the 2.3 was quite a bit louder than the 1.7 with both firing forward. I chose rays path and it was louder for me. That was with my aq 2200 though. I haven't tested with real power yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted November 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 I built a 1.7 cf for my lvl 5 12" after I built my 2.3 cf box for it and the 2.3 was quite a bit louder than the 1.7 with both firing forward. I chose rays path and it was louder for me. That was with my aq 2200 though. I haven't tested with real power yet. That's exactly the reason I want to fit this bigger box, Ray's been trying to get me to listen for a while. I just don't know if cutting that brace is that big a deal. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 I also like what was said about making your own rear deck...it's been done before and gives you the height you want. There's been rear decks made of mdf and ones where the box replaces the rear deck. Be imaginative and you'll make it fit. *cough 2 12s* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted November 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Fuck doing two of these, 100lbs each, one is plenty. Not to mention another amp, 3 more batteries... I don't need to redo the whole rear deck, I only need about an inch more of height to do what needs done. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 The sheet metal of the rear deck on a unibody doesn't really do much, it's the stronger thicker steel that actually adds te structural support. Cutting just that inch off I wouldn't assume would do much. I had a buddy who cut his out in his civic (lol race car) and he really didn't notice a difference. I would suggest, if possible, a rear strut bar, and a nice one. That would take the flex out of the rear deck and put some of the stress on the bar. Although I doubt you can make it and the box fit, just a suggestion. Like I said, it's been done to where the box replaced the rear deck before as long as it's a tight fit. As for his civic, he had a really nice rear strut bar and ran his car hard as duck and we never noticed any change in high speed curves, which is where you'll see any change, if there is any. I think the strut bar helped the most just as a precaution. Worse comes to worse, I'd cut the whole deck out and raise it up an inch so you can fire forward and seal off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted November 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 The more I look at it, that brace is only so big because its thin sheet metal. I could cut it off and have someone weld in a thick piece of angle stock. Probably be stronger, just need to find a welder who won't rape my wallet. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted November 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 No need to fire forward, Tone, I didn't gain shit going from a trunk box to firing. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Id make it where it could fire back or forward. Im leary about block the entire opening. Cut 1 1/2" off the bottom of the cross brace, then weld 1/8" plate to the bottom of it to re-box it in. Simple, doesnt need to be solid welded either. Stitched every 3" will be fine. 2008 California state record holder 157.2 Bassrace2009 California state record holder 157.0 BassraceRollin 50's 158.7db2009 King of Cali Bassrace2009 USACi score 160.5 @ 42hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted November 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Id make it where it could fire back or forward. Im leary about block the entire opening. Cut 1 1/2" off the bottom of the cross brace, then weld 1/8" plate to the bottom of it to re-box it in. Simple, doesnt need to be solid welded either. Stitched every 3" will be fine. The box won't block the opening, but will be symmetrical so I could spin it around. 30x20x13, 2.19 after, 37.5 port area. (Tentative; may change with t/s specs) Thought about reboxing it, too. I think Tim has a plasma cutter at his shop, might need to take a trip up there. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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