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Box modifications/recomendations


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Hello all! This is my first box design and im building it for my advanced woodshop class at school and im looking for some info to help it hit loudest:

It is designed to use 2 18" level 4 subs from DC audio, its designed for mostly daily use but might do comps if i can find any in Colorado

this is the Box

box218slevel4.png

And here is the info from the box calculator (the box is a two chamber)

box18slevel4.png

What im wondering is were is the best location for the port, it will be likely facing forwards against the trunk door of my Grand Cherokee, and i was wondering if it would be better to have it on the plane of the subs or if the box would be louder facing backwards too.

will add link to sketchup when i figure it out :blink:

anyway, what do you think about it and what could i change to make it louder.

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i assume the specs are per chamber? if so, very nice!

for the port placement, i think if the subs are facing the back hatch, i think a good place to put the ports is on the bottom, but on the same plane as the sub. but you don't want to suffocate the ports.

if you can't keep about 4 inches from the back hatch, i would probably consider going subs and ports up.

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

More box builds

some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

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I have found that subs up and port back are the best sounding setup in a cherokee. :good:

there is some VERY hard headed people out there. Anyone who says a DD-1 isnt necessary is also saying an O-scope isnt necessary. Anyone who says an O-scope IN THE MINIMUM isnt necessary, is a noob. Forget the DD-1 for a minute, any reputable installer will at LEAST use an O-scope. Those guys in that thread are clowns. Hard headed clowns.

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the only problem(s) i foresee with just flipping the box are

1) there should probably be about 4 inches from the port to the hatch, like i said, you don't want to suffocate the ports.

2) with the port on the bottom, sometimes you can have flex issues without enough bracing.

proof: @ about 2 minutes

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

More box builds

some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

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Alright i can see the port issues happening, but the box is designed 30" deep and tall and the trunk i believe has either 3 feet or 3 and a half feet deep so 36" or like 40" deep so it would have more than enough room for the extra port area between the box and the trunk door i think

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Sub up port back always metered best in my Cherokee, just make sure the port is well braced. My box was like Meade's though, bolt in port in the center.

-Zach-

2010 Toyota Tundra
Full Hybrid Audio SQ

7" BDS on 37's

2000 Ford Expedition

160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- :(

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alrighty so since i am still a noob at box building, what will i have to do to help brace the box and the port?

edit: also and as far as that box goes vs mine the port on that box is one big long one, were my box is split into two chambers and two ports of about 20 inch each instead of one for 40"

Edited by Max-x
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do you still have the sketchup model? it would be a lot easier to show you rather than tell you.

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

More box builds

some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

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