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AA SMD 18's


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Been lurking around the forums for a couple weeks. Been watching Steve's vids for a couple years. He is definitely the source for my new found addiction. I don't even own a car because I haven't decided on what I wanted. Originally I wanted a Dodge charger (SRT-8 or a limited edition R/T). But... I have shifted my focus from speeding tickets to loud music. I think I am going to go with a dodge magnum. I'm a dodge guy. No haters please. HA! On to the topic at hand...

I am going to break this down as much as I can. I have a lot of things running through my head so if it's a bit of a mess forgive me.

I would like to run 2 of Steve's 18's. I have been using WinISD Pro for about 3 months I used to to build my woofer for my entertainment system. Not sure if this is the best program for car audio.

Fist) I would like to know if this is a typical response (not sure of the terminology) for this sub. It took a while for the program to accept the numbers I was typing in. I ended up having to put the number of voice coils in fist before the other specs, and the way I learned it was to do that last. Don't mind what its tuned at just the general shape.

smd1833hz.jpg

Second) Box size and tuning. From the few threads I have found about this sub... 7ft^3 tuned at 30hz is optimum. I know Steve's is tuned at 30hz and we have all seen the results.

My numbers. All 14ft^3 (2 subs) with a 10inx10in port at 10,000 watts (5k ea).

Tuned at 30hz, 33hz, 35hz in that order.

20hz 116db 113db 112db

25hz 126db 122db 122db

30hz 135db 132db 129db

33hz 134db 136db 135db

35hz 133db 136db 137db

40hz 131db 133db 135db

45hz 130db 132db 133db

50hz 130db 131db 132db

60hz 130db 131db 131db

I am leaning towards 33 or 35hz. Opinions?

Now if I am not mistaken it will be 10-12db louder in a car correct? Is there a way to determine this? Can the vehicle actually lower SPL???

Third) I know the RMS on this sub is 3500 but I see several people that have 4500/5000 watt amps on them. One guy in particular was running 4500W and said the sub could take more power (I don't know his experience level). Any experience in this area?

Fourth) Port size. I see some people with giant ports and some (like Steve) with relatively small ports. The larger ports will probably chuff a lot less? I cant help but think that by the time the port starts chuffing it is going to be way too loud to notice. I would Like to get a hair trick out of this if I can. I know that hair tricks relate to sub size any relation to port size?

Fifth) RAGE!!!

Sixth) I should probably post this in amps but since I am here. Hopefully this doesn't break the VS's rule. There is a 2500 watt amp of a well know brand that cost about 1.5x as much as a 5,000 watt amp, well known but not so name brand. Regardless of sound quality the 5,000 watt amp will be louder?

Thanks,

J!

~Meh~

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100 square inches of port for 14 cubes?

keep lurking, you have a SHIT TON more to learn before jumping into the deep end with that high end of equipment.

Always a hater somewhere in the crowd... Don't listen to this guy OP, he's jealous he never got loud... LOL

On the real though... I'm thinkin you have NOT ENOUGH port area... I'm no expert by any means though... I wanna see pics too...

Lmao Thanks I was going to come up with some clever BS comeback but its not even worth feeding it lol.

There wont be pics for a while... I haven't even bought the car lmao. I would like to know how Steve got away with such a small port though. Is his box just that big?

~Meh~

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I would not go with 7 cuft with SMDs. 6 is enough with 5k per woofer. Save the extra volume for more port area. 100 sqin per sub would be closer to what you want, not 100 sqin total.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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If you dont list the amps we cant say yes or no, because each could be rated at either RMS or peak..

As to cabin gain, it will always be a gain, just only to a point. There is a possibility that the vehicle could lessen SPL if you put the subs and/or port in the completely wrong direction, but without knowing your enclosure style there is no "correct" direction to tell you yet.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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If you dont list the amps we cant say yes or no, because each could be rated at either RMS or peak..

As to cabin gain, it will always be a gain, just only to a point. There is a possibility that the vehicle could lessen SPL if you put the subs and/or port in the completely wrong direction, but without knowing your enclosure style there is no "correct" direction to tell you yet.

I message you the two amps.

Subs would be facing up behind the rear seat. I assume that's what you wanted to know.

~Meh~

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suv/station wagon/van works best with subs up/port back... unless you wall it, then you can do a killer bandpass enclosure ;)

Of the two amps, i'd say the 5K would be the better choice as long as you are careful when setting it up so it doesnt clip to death. I've no experience with it btw. Just make a post in the amp section asking for experiences with the amp brand.

Edited by STEvil

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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Ya' know Sanitarium, I personally didn't think your reply was so negative. I pretty much of agree. I mean, if the OP has so much money, that it just doesn't even matter, that's all fine. But generally speaking, people usually do start out with smaller, cheaper equipment, and then by the time they get all of that stuff dialed in, they are totally ready to move up to the big, expensive stuff,

Heck, if you can make smaller, cheaper stuff sound good, you KNOW that stepping up to SMD subs (or similar), and several Kwts is going to be redonculous ! :)

Peace,

Fish

100 square inches of port for 14 cubes?

keep lurking, you have a SHIT TON more to learn before jumping into the deep end with that high end of equipment.

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Depending on power, I'd do a 10-12ft^3 common chamber ported box with 160-180in^2 of port. Tune in the lower 30's and prepare to wang.

Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs


I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script>


2200+ designs since March 2011...

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