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how is this box design


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boxSpecs2.jpg

SubBox3.jpg

SubBox31.jpg

So i have another idea i would like. How is this specs and design for this setup.

Also could someone help me with the port measurements on the length? Just wondering how i would get the length i need with the port bending this way. I am extremely thankful for support or advice.

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i think you should put 2 45's on the corners opposite to the port (so 45-sub-port-sub-45)

SubBox31.jpg

So i have another idea i would like. How is this specs and design for this setup.

Also could someone help me with the port measurements on the length? Just wondering how i would get the length i need with the port bending this way. I am extremely thankful for support or advice.

thats all i can think of unless someone pops in with a good design back round

edit: changed letter color green was sorta hard to see on my screen

Edited by deathcards

skar sk2500.1
0 gauge power and ground kunukonceptz
alpine HU
vxi65 components on BA gt-275
new build log -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150642-project-d-kon-deathcards-build-log/#entry2148821
2 x-15 sundowns

singer alt, odyssey bat, and maxwell ultra caps

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go back into your sketchup design and make sure the thickness of the wood doesn't interfere with the sub cutouts in the first design.

basically in both sketchup models, you need to account for the wood thickness. in the first design, the two port pieces should be 15.5" long and 10.75" long (using the wall thickness as part of the port).

also a 45 in the port of the 1st design wouldn't hurt.

those are pretty easy mistakes to make, but they can have a pretty big impact on your design.

use the push/pull tool when modeling your boxes.

Edited by 412 CVX

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

More box builds

some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

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I have noticed that threaded rods are used for bracing.Is that better than using 2x2's or baffles.I really like your box.Looks like it can handle some power with no flex.

i've never personally used threaded rod, but from what i hear, it's a very good alternative for 2x2's. they don't displace much air and don't interrupt airflow as much.

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

More box builds

some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

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go back into your sketchup design and make sure the thickness of the wood doesn't interfere with the sub cutouts in the first design.

basically in both sketchup models, you need to account for the wood thickness. in the first design, the two port pieces should be 15.5" long and 10.75" long (using the wall thickness as part of the port).

also a 45 in the port of the 1st design wouldn't hurt.

those are pretty easy mistakes to make, but they can have a pretty big impact on your design.

use the push/pull tool when modeling your boxes.

Ok so in the first one if i do the port like that as you say it will interfere with the subs unfortunately so i guess i may scrap that idea. Unless i add 2" to the depth i would possible make it work but then the port is maybe an inch or so away from the back hatch. That wouldn't be good for the air flow would it?

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