Nine8SST Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I see alot of people using "bolts" for speaker terminals, sounds good to me considering I have a shitload of bolts in the shop but not a single speaker terminal. Question is, is there a preferred type of metal that works/sounds better than another....stainless, zinc, galvanized? Quote 1998 SS/T Ram Build Log - Kenwood KVT-514 and KNA-G510 Navigation - 2 DC Level 3 12" - Components??? - Sundown ??? - Sundown??? - Knu Konceptz - Second Skin Dampy Pro - XS D6500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I drill a hole run the wire through seal it on the inside. direct connect > bolt and ring terminals Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nine8SST Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I drill a hole run the wire through seal it on the inside. direct connect > bolt and ring terminals Even better...thanks Nate! Quote 1998 SS/T Ram Build Log - Kenwood KVT-514 and KNA-G510 Navigation - 2 DC Level 3 12" - Components??? - Sundown ??? - Sundown??? - Knu Konceptz - Second Skin Dampy Pro - XS D6500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlstrass Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I drill a hole run the wire through seal it on the inside. direct connect > bolt and ring terminals Not if you want to be able to change wiring config on the fly, then bolts are better I use SS hardware, 1/4-20 as that's plenty big enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FroznBeavrBALLs Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I drill a hole run the wire through seal it on the inside. direct connect > bolt and ring terminals ^this but i have never done that. lol... its always better to not have a middle man of a bolt. just my 2cents Quote 2 DC 12" lvl 4s 1 DC 1.2k XS Power S3400 big 3 Alll KNU wire Pioneer HU cheapo Legacy coaxes (just for now) http://www.stevemead...n-sentra-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bre2ts Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 the resistance in the bolt isn't enough to fret about Quote Feedback 1 | Feedback 2 you win some, you lose some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HatersGonnaHate Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 ^^^^ This. More bolts = more resistance. However minor it is, it's still more resistance. Quote My name is AdamThis is my Civic Build.7" Samsung Tab 2Kenwood KDC-X896Clarion EQS746Sundown X-15DC 3.5k @2ohmHatersGonnaHate's 02 Civic UBLELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/FitDon's Jeep Grand Cherokee Rebuild N8ball2013 - i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol srp365 - If posting were picking up bitches, I'd be going home single tonight looks like tony montana sneezed in your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I drill a hole run the wire through seal it on the inside. direct connect > bolt and ring terminals Not if you want to be able to change wiring config on the fly, then bolts are better I use SS hardware, 1/4-20 as that's plenty big enough Since I dont compete nor need to do that I dont have to worry about. I tend to forget that people wire differently for different purposes. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nine8SST Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 (edited) I drill a hole run the wire through seal it on the inside. direct connect > bolt and ring terminals Not if you want to be able to change wiring config on the fly, then bolts are better I use SS hardware, 1/4-20 as that's plenty big enough I dont forsee removing it. Besides, the way the box is gonna be mounted to my back wall and with the amp rack it would take alot of time to even get to the bolts if I went that route, there wont be any visible or easily accessable wires at all. Edited November 16, 2011 by Nine8SST Quote 1998 SS/T Ram Build Log - Kenwood KVT-514 and KNA-G510 Navigation - 2 DC Level 3 12" - Components??? - Sundown ??? - Sundown??? - Knu Konceptz - Second Skin Dampy Pro - XS D6500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky A. Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 sounds like wireing straight through is for you then! i seal the inside of the wire hole with fiberglass resin. and some mat aorund the sides just to be sure, Quote BUILD LINK: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/112034-2-sundown-18s-98-f-150/page__p__1565972__fromsearch__1#entry156597298 Ford F-150Truck:37" superswamper tsl radials16" ion alloy wheels3" body lift2" suspension liftOffbrand brushguardPIAA driving lights6000K HID'sSystem:2 18" Sundown NightshaedAq3500Custom Fiberglass boxfosgate T1 6x8 Coxialsbass inferno 2000 watt 4 channel2 XS power d3100's0 Gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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