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POWER LOSS! Please help 1996 cobra


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whats compression on all the cylinders could be a vlavle floating or burnt or push rod

I do not know yet, I will see if i can find out tonight

Have you checked timing and fuel pressure yet?

Fuel pressure is good. Checking timing tonight

I would visit a Mustang forum as I'm absolutely POSITIVE they could diagnose this problem in about 15 seconds. Also, there are a couple die hard Mustang guys on here. 727Designs knows a thing or two about them I think, and a few other know the Fox body Mustangs very well.

Not true, at least for me. I posted this exact thread days ago on mustangforums and got one reply that was no help.

How many miles are on the motor? A lot of heavy footed driving? I agree with checking compression of each cylinder. Also check the valvetrain, although issues there usually have noise with them.

89,992 miles. Only recently i have been messing around with people, so i would say heavy driving the past 2 weeks

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What is puzzling me the most, is that this is only upon cold start. After driving for 5 min it goes away

MY BUILD

1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport

1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything

Alpine cda-9884

Crescendo CZ components

(2) Crescendo bc2000's

(2) Jolt 150ah

(2) Yellow top optimas

(1) Juicebox black cherry addition

(1) Mechman 270 avbm

miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's

You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts.

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What is puzzling me the most, is that this is only upon cold start. After driving for 5 min it goes away

So it stops when the car reaches operating temperature? Just let the car warm up before driving it lol.

Has to be a sensor issue if it just goes away after driving a few minutes. Are you throwing any codes?

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What is puzzling me the most, is that this is only upon cold start. After driving for 5 min it goes away

So it stops when the car reaches operating temperature? Just let the car warm up before driving it lol.

Has to be a sensor issue if it just goes away after driving a few minutes. Are you throwing any codes?

Haha, wow i feel challenged. I completely forgot to check for codes before diagnosing :noob: I will definitely check tonight

MY BUILD

1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport

1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything

Alpine cda-9884

Crescendo CZ components

(2) Crescendo bc2000's

(2) Jolt 150ah

(2) Yellow top optimas

(1) Juicebox black cherry addition

(1) Mechman 270 avbm

miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's

You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts.

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I would put it on the scanner and check the tps sensor. then slowly press down on the pedal and watch the voltage, it should slowly increase from around 1.2 volts to around 4.88 volts , if you get to a point where it doesnt increase or get a wacky reading you might have a worn spot on the tps sensor. I am not saying its your tps sensor thats bad but if there are no codes stored in the pcm then your gonna have to test certian sensors to see if you can find the problem. it wont be a coil pack because that would give the engine a miss. One question for you though, does this only happen engine cold? and can you get the engine to do this by reving in neutral at said rpm?

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I would put it on the scanner and check the tps sensor. then slowly press down on the pedal and watch the voltage, it should slowly increase from around 1.2 volts to around 4.88 volts , if you get to a point where it doesnt increase or get a wacky reading you might have a worn spot on the tps sensor. I am not saying its your tps sensor thats bad but if there are no codes stored in the pcm then your gonna have to test certian sensors to see if you can find the problem. it wont be a coil pack because that would give the engine a miss. One question for you though, does this only happen engine cold? and can you get the engine to do this by reving in neutral at said rpm?

Yes sir ONLY WHEN ENGINE COLD does this happen. I havent tried in neutral actually, i am about to leave my house to my friends shop to do some work on the car. Ill try it in neutral

MY BUILD

1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport

1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything

Alpine cda-9884

Crescendo CZ components

(2) Crescendo bc2000's

(2) Jolt 150ah

(2) Yellow top optimas

(1) Juicebox black cherry addition

(1) Mechman 270 avbm

miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's

You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts.

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I would be looking at the MAF....I realize you have cleaned it, but ..... lets see what codes you get?

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Just left, problem happens in neuteal also. All update when we scan

MY BUILD

1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport

1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything

Alpine cda-9884

Crescendo CZ components

(2) Crescendo bc2000's

(2) Jolt 150ah

(2) Yellow top optimas

(1) Juicebox black cherry addition

(1) Mechman 270 avbm

miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's

You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts.

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Only codes are O2 sensors, installing new plugs and wires now

MY BUILD

1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport

1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything

Alpine cda-9884

Crescendo CZ components

(2) Crescendo bc2000's

(2) Jolt 150ah

(2) Yellow top optimas

(1) Juicebox black cherry addition

(1) Mechman 270 avbm

miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's

You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts.

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Only codes are O2 sensors, installing new plugs and wires now

You need to get it on a scan tool, and then watch the 02 sensor readings, see if they are changing with rpm increase. could poss have a vacuum leak making the car run lean, or dumping too much fuel making it run rich. The scanner should flip flop from rich to lean and back. As mentioned before a mass air flow sensor will cause a car to bog down also, just not sure if it would do it at just 3500, or does it do that 3500 and up? But with out going out and just start replacing parts till you get the right one , gonna need to tap into the computer and see what kind of readings you are getting.

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