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series vs. parallel


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all depends on your equipment, what your electrical is capable and what you want to achieve. AS for the specs. Parallel is connecting all positives together and all negatives together. Series is connecting one or 2 positives and one or 2 negatives together and tying the neg and positives together, i HEARD that parallel is better because the flow of even volts and equal amps. But that could be wrong.

** so i would wire parallel if possible with your equipment.

2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee LaredoPioneer AVH- 3200DVD2/0 Flex-A-Prene Welding Cable

(2) Fully Loaded Fi Sp4's dual 1-------> My YouTube Channel <-------

Needs more power those woofers will laugh at that turd

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i HEARD that parallel is better because the flow of even volts and equal amps. But that could be wrong.

In parallel, the voltage across each coil is the same, and any slight differences in the coils would cause the current to be different.

In series, the current through each coil would always be the same, and any slight differences in the coils would cause the voltage across each coil to be slightly different.

Unless the sub has an issue, these 'differences' are too small to notice and do not hurt anything either way.

Wiring in series or parallel will be determined by what is available with the woofer you want to purchase vs. the load required to maximize your amp's output.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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iv only wondered if there could be a diffrence in box rise..

AUSTRALIA do i need say more?

HU: some crap pionee

AMP: dc 9k @ 18v

SUB: 4 elevation audio sqx 12"

Battery: 2 neuton power 8200d

burp setup for fun 152's

soon to come: rebuilt soundstream xxx (2 18" OR 3 15" wall) Bunch speakers, more batts and new HU

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i dont know how much truth there is to it, but there is a vid on youtube from ed lester explaining the actual properties behind parallel wiring and series wiring. even when configuring to the same ohm load, he was getting higher score results with parallel wiring. now this is in terms of spl. ive actually heard this from a couple very educated competitors. i wont try to explain it, but theres a vid out there somewhere with a technical explanation.

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None of this matters in a daily system. If you doing everything possible to get every last tenth out of your system, then the only way to tell any of this is to test, test and test some more.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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That video made me laugh. The heat example was a little off. . .

Current will generate more heat with a given load but if the load changes, you still have to look at the actual power.

Example - which will generate more heat:

50 amps across a one ohm load, or

2 amps across a 50 ohm load?

If you know the answer, you will see what I am saying.

I have no doubt the parallel coils were louder, but the sub it self has several parameters that change when you change coils that will contribute to the difference.

A better test would be the same sub with a X amount of power with the coils in series and then the same amount of power on the same sun with the coils in parallel.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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