Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

sub


basshead8569

Recommended Posts

The soundstream REFERENCE R1 SERIES are DVC 4 ohm coils wired in parallel give 2 ohm per sub. In the following link you have 6 suggestions for ported and sealed boxes:

http://www.soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Subwoofers/r1-reference.htm

The Kenwood KAC-9105D is <1200W x 1 at 1 ohm impedance.

If you parallel the subs with each having their coils wired in parallel you will get to 1 ohm total impedance.

Since the subwoofers combined power is 1800w and the amplifier is <1200W it would be hard for you to blow them. Set the ISF switch to 25Hz and redo all power terminals specially the ground terminal which must be clean bare metal to bare metal tightly fit.

Unless you have some sort of malfunctioning amplifier it will be completely safe to use.

I'll have to take a look into it. The box and the book that came with the amps said they are not 1 ohm stable in big bold lettering. But, take a look into it. Maybe it is the same book they give out for different models. And if I keep the amps that I Have now. I have 2 kenwood amps. Running the kickers 12" dcvr. I dont think that the amps are malfunctioning. I'll have to take a look into the boxes. I am loss when it comes to boxes and the ports. I want a ported box. Thanks for the info.

Current system (still building) 2 kicker 12" dcvr in factory kicker ported box, Rockford Fosgate 1200.1 Amp, Kenwood ddx-470 ddin radio, Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge wiring, Rockford Fosgate punch 6X8 2 way speakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The soundstream REFERENCE R1 SERIES are DVC 4 ohm coils wired in parallel give 2 ohm per sub. In the following link you have 6 suggestions for ported and sealed boxes:

http://www.soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Subwoofers/r1-reference.htm

The Kenwood KAC-9105D is <1200W x 1 at 1 ohm impedance.

If you parallel the subs with each having their coils wired in parallel you will get to 1 ohm total impedance.

Since the subwoofers combined power is 1800w and the amplifier is <1200W it would be hard for you to blow them. Set the ISF switch to 25Hz and redo all power terminals specially the ground terminal which must be clean bare metal to bare metal tightly fit.

Unless you have some sort of malfunctioning amplifier it will be completely safe to use.

Ok well I missed that, you have 2 Kenwood KAC-9105D one sub per amp, then if you wire the coils of each sub in parallel and connect each sub to one of the amps you will be running each sub at 2 ohm to each amp and since the subs are 900W and so is each amp at 2 ohm then you should still have no problems with that system.

Just let me know the maximum dims you can fit in your car for a box and I can give you a box design suggestion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The soundstream REFERENCE R1 SERIES are DVC 4 ohm coils wired in parallel give 2 ohm per sub. In the following link you have 6 suggestions for ported and sealed boxes:

http://www.soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Subwoofers/r1-reference.htm

The Kenwood KAC-9105D is <1200W x 1 at 1 ohm impedance.

If you parallel the subs with each having their coils wired in parallel you will get to 1 ohm total impedance.

Since the subwoofers combined power is 1800w and the amplifier is <1200W it would be hard for you to blow them. Set the ISF switch to 25Hz and redo all power terminals specially the ground terminal which must be clean bare metal to bare metal tightly fit.

Unless you have some sort of malfunctioning amplifier it will be completely safe to use.

Ok well I missed that, you have 2 Kenwood KAC-9105D one sub per amp, then if you wire the coils of each sub in parallel and connect each sub to one of the amps you will be running each sub at 2 ohm to each amp and since the subs are 900W and so is each amp at 2 ohm then you should still have no problems with that system.

Just let me know the maximum dims you can fit in your car for a box and I can give you a box design suggestion.

Yea my new box is not going to be like the kicker one I have now. One speaker wire port on the box for 2 subs. 42in wide with probably barely enough room to fit my fingers between the box and side wall. 22in high but think 18-20in would be my max height. My opening for the trunk is only 17 so might have to be 16 1/2. and I have 30in deep with little room between the subs and back of trunk. And I cannot have the back seats down. My daughter rides in the car. Now, I have no problem with the idea of building the box inside the trunk. I already have the floor wood. I took that carpet piece out, put it on a thick piece of wood and cut an exact fit piece. But, I am open for suggestions. Like I said it is going to be my first big build. Not a throw a sub and amp together thing. I would like to get it done and done right the first time. Why I am asking around and getting suggestions. Have a few people inboxing me some great ideas too....

Current system (still building) 2 kicker 12" dcvr in factory kicker ported box, Rockford Fosgate 1200.1 Amp, Kenwood ddx-470 ddin radio, Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge wiring, Rockford Fosgate punch 6X8 2 way speakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok here is a single chamber design with a single slot port based on the dims you gave me and in the SS subs specifications you want to put in:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 32,12 Hz

Vb = 6,268 ft^3

Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted

External Height = 16,5 in

External Width = 42 in

External Depth = 28 in

Port Width = 8 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 42 x 16 1/2

Left & Right Sides = 25 3/4 x 15

Top & Bottom = 42 x 25 3/4

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 17 3/4 x 15

Extension = 8 15/16 x 15

If you want to know how the parts are assembled I will post a diagram. if you want to change the dims let me know, the design is for the Soundstream REFERENCE R1 12" subs the 15"s would be a tight fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok here is a single chamber design with a single slot port based on the dims you gave me and in the SS subs specifications you want to put in:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 32,12 Hz

Vb = 6,268 ft^3

Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted

External Height = 16,5 in

External Width = 42 in

External Depth = 28 in

Port Width = 8 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 42 x 16 1/2

Left & Right Sides = 25 3/4 x 15

Top & Bottom = 42 x 25 3/4

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 17 3/4 x 15

Extension = 8 15/16 x 15

If you want to know how the parts are assembled I will post a diagram. if you want to change the dims let me know, the design is for the Soundstream REFERENCE R1 12" subs the 15"s would be a tight fit.

The 15"s would fit. But, I would be worried about the gap between the subs and the walls of the trunk. I would end up breaking the subs or something. Now thats just a rectangle box? And is the port round or rectangle? Sorry for all the questions. Like a said a noob at boxes....

Current system (still building) 2 kicker 12" dcvr in factory kicker ported box, Rockford Fosgate 1200.1 Amp, Kenwood ddx-470 ddin radio, Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge wiring, Rockford Fosgate punch 6X8 2 way speakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The subs will fit when it comes to installing them but they require a bigger internal volume to work properly, I mean tight in that sense.

The box is rectangular with the external dimensions listed, it uses a single slot port which YES it is rectangular.

If the external dimensions listed don't fit I can go back and change them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The subs will fit when it comes to installing them but they require a bigger internal volume to work properly, I mean tight in that sense.

The box is rectangular with the external dimensions listed, it uses a single slot port which YES it is rectangular.

If the external dimensions listed don't fit I can go back and change them.

The 42in will make it for it is a tight fit wheel well to wheel well. Which will work since the port is not on the side. Now the gap to get into the trunk it 17in. Will it be able to fit into the trunk? Or build it in the trunk? If for this it is possible? Now as for the wiring port. I have not went and measured it with the dimensions you given me. So, in my head I do not think that the ports will be on the sides. Now I know you can not put the wiring ports on the back. So, where will be another good spot to put them? Unless the ports on the sides are made not even with the outside of the box. But, inside a little. I now have a thick cable and cannot remember what gauge it is. It came with the Kicker 0gauge wiring kit... You have been very helpful. Thanks. If you do not mind. Could ya get a sketch of it? If it is asking to much You dont have too.

Current system (still building) 2 kicker 12" dcvr in factory kicker ported box, Rockford Fosgate 1200.1 Amp, Kenwood ddx-470 ddin radio, Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge wiring, Rockford Fosgate punch 6X8 2 way speakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet baby jesus....

Ehh..... good luck with the new box OP :santa:

i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah..

You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people.

I was gifted with an innate ability to distribute wholesale ass beatings in a timely and orderly fashion.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet baby jesus....

Ehh..... good luck with the new box OP :santa:

I am going to need the luck. My first box build and first build. Not just getting decent subs and amps and just putting the subs in a prebuilt box and setting up.

Current system (still building) 2 kicker 12" dcvr in factory kicker ported box, Rockford Fosgate 1200.1 Amp, Kenwood ddx-470 ddin radio, Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge wiring, Rockford Fosgate punch 6X8 2 way speakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok basshead8569, right the port is in the same face as the subs not on the sides so you don't have to worry about that.

Consider your dimensions carefully so that you can put the box in and out without serious problems and then I will recalculate and post a diagram of how it assembles.

You can place your wiring terminals on the opposite side of the port or on the back again in the opposite side of the port beyond it's internal end.

Also consider where your amps will go, when you have it all figured out let me know the new dims.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 543 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...