TigerTony Posted January 10, 2012 Report Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) I've been seeing people saying they built their box for the Power they are putting into their subs. I was unsure of what they meant. Could anyone clear it up for me? And a small question, Would more Cone area over take for loud than half the cone area with Double the RMS? Edited January 10, 2012 by TygaTony Quote
battlewalrus Posted January 10, 2012 Report Posted January 10, 2012 interested in this as well bump Quote 2005 Honda CR-V AQ HDC315-A Hifonics BRZ1700.1D .5 Ohm 4.4 ft^3 box Kenwood Deck Big 3 XS Power D5100R Starter, D975 Rear
412 CVX Posted January 10, 2012 Report Posted January 10, 2012 I assume they meant that they braced the box according to the amount of power that they were giving the subs. and yes, cone area is king. to my knowledge, double the cone area > double the power, although i have no experience to prove this. Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid.
Watch the bass Posted January 10, 2012 Report Posted January 10, 2012 I've been seeing people saying they built their box for the Power they are putting into their subs. I was unsure of what they meant. Could anyone clear it up for me? And a small question, Would more Cone area over take for loud than half that with Double the RMS? That means a box build threw the power, that you can build smaller boxes but you have to give more power. More conearea means that you starting with a higher dB/watt ratio. If you look to sub specs of a modell you can see so bigger the sub so higher the dB/watt ratio. If you mean in your example using 2 subs with on a amp compaired to 1sub on a amp, is the next reason you have 2 motors working on your substage. Double the power on one sub will make the sub round 3 dB´s louder. Remember if you have a sub with a watt-ratio 90 dB @ 1 watt, you need 10 watt´s to get 100 dB´s, 100 watt´s for 110 dB´s, 1000 watt for 120 dB´s. 10 dB´s higher sound´s for the ear´s double loud. Quote "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley
pa-pa-platypus Posted January 10, 2012 Report Posted January 10, 2012 typically shrinking the box will give more control over the subwoofer.. mostly what ive seen is people shrink the boxes to do this..and as far as the cone area>rms it can be very install dependent..in some cases more cone area will gain but too large a woofer crammed into too small a space will be outperformed by small subs Quote This isn't teeball. YOU DO NOT GET A TROPHY JUST BECAUSE YOU SHOW UP. Put the work in and then maybe get the respect when it has been earned 151.6 with single 12 at 41 hz 153.2 with 2 12's at 43 hz power: dd m4
TigerTony Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) Oh. So Watch the Bass, Correct me if i'm wrong but, for an example on the Box, the M1 Level 3's were 600 Rms in a 3 Cuft Box ported. If i made it smaller it would be able to handle more power? and is there a certain ratio there needs to be for it to work correctly? As for the cone area vs RMS. For an Example right now, Since I have Currently in my car, 2 Punch Z's and both total are getting about 200-250 rms. I have a Mtx7500 that's 400 RMS. Since its about double the RMS and they are all 12's. The Punch z's should be louder. correct? Due to Cone area? @AqSubOwner1990, How does it give more control? I'm still a bit confused on it. Edited January 10, 2012 by TygaTony Quote
Watch the bass Posted January 10, 2012 Report Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) I never guess to put more power to a sub than they are rated for. I say a sub can play ín a bigger box with lesser watt´s to your satisfaction, and if you build a smaller box you have to give more power to control the sub. PS Sorry that was a little bit less, we have a member here who have 2 DC lvl 5 each on little under 1000 watt´s each, and he play over 150. Idk know your subs and there specs, im from Europe and in the moment no MTX distribution in Europe and i never heard of Punch Z subs (could be that is RF line but idk). I would do the 2 12´s only the MTX is the real better sub i would do the MTX. Steps of quality, better sourounds, bigger coils, more cooling, better cones and so on. At my last carshow i saw a vew of cruel and cheap subs, who´s never get low with washy sound, but them was loud for less and the noobs didn´t hear the diffrence and saw only the price. Edited January 10, 2012 by Watch the bass Quote "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley
n8ball2013 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Posted January 10, 2012 theoretically doubling power or doubling cone will give you the same gains. However whne you are overpowering your woofer with that double the power I would believe it to be more beneficial to double the cone area instead. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
TigerTony Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Posted January 10, 2012 Oh I see. Thanks for the answers! Quote
pa-pa-platypus Posted January 10, 2012 Report Posted January 10, 2012 a smaller box allows for more control over the suspension of the sub and when you add more power there is the chance that the sub will over excurt.. shrinking the box will allow to counteract this.. there is also the thermal aspect of overpowering the woofer.. even in the right box a sub may not be able to thermally handle the power being pushed to it.. Quote This isn't teeball. YOU DO NOT GET A TROPHY JUST BECAUSE YOU SHOW UP. Put the work in and then maybe get the respect when it has been earned 151.6 with single 12 at 41 hz 153.2 with 2 12's at 43 hz power: dd m4
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