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The ulitmate subwoofer enclosure


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I would like to start of with saying I have experimenting lately with speaker box designs and educating myself with acoustical engineering.

One type of enclosure that had fascinated me was the taped horn. I have completed the experiments I wanted with them, and concluded that they don't work well in the car environment.

I've noticed that a lot of people are not following some fundamental rules in acoustics, and building there enclosures in-efficiently. Example:

The worst enclosure shape to the best shape:

Square with speaker centered (maximum standing waves and speaker destruction)

Rectangle

Triangular

Egg shaped the best

My next build will include A AQ HDC3 18

Box design: Hexagon shaped using 11 ply, .75 birch, aluminum braced, and now considering to add ceramic tiling to the interior walls.

I will be building a standard enclosure,(rectangle/square) of the same volume to test this against.

Before I finish, I would like someone(you all) to discuss, what shape, and position is best suited for a port in car audio? I've seen spl boxes with the port extending outside the enclosure, so is this the best? As far as I can remember the port should be at least half its length away from the closest wall.(don't quote me on this).

There is almost no information on the web about this stuff, and I hope this discussion can help educate me and other bass heads alike!

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I think you're going to find paper science and real world application are two completely different things. I'm curious what makes you think tapered horns don't work in car environments?

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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I think you're going to find paper science and real world application are two completely different things. I'm curious what makes you think tapered horns don't work in car environments?

Well it's not that I think, I've tried, and I was sadly displeased with the performance to the ear. I even played with the with of the horn let me add(correct speaker for the horn designed and tested) with sad results every time to the ear. Now im using the same horn in my home for my home theater and it shakes the walls on the next floor (only one 8'').

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Are you sure you did it accurately because I have heard setups like that before and if done right they sound pretty damn good.

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paper doesn't equal real world performance a great deal of the time. and ive seen successful and good sounding tapered horns in vehicles before, they just might not be for every vehicle.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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I think you're going to find paper science and real world application are two completely different things. I'm curious what makes you think tapered horns don't work in car environments?

Well it's not that I think, I've tried, and I was sadly displeased with the performance to the ear. I even played with the with of the horn let me add(correct speaker for the horn designed and tested) with sad results every time to the ear. Now im using the same horn in my home for my home theater and it shakes the walls on the next floor (only one 8'').

140 in a vehicle is WAAAAAY different that 140 in a home audio setup. all i mean by this is loud in home is nothing like loud in a vehicle.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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paper doesn't equal real world performance a great deal of the time. and ive seen successful and good sounding tapered horns in vehicles before, they just might not be for every vehicle.

you just might be right about my vehicle. I had the box first built by a carpenter just to make sure it was structurally sound, then I built two more, one the same size and one wider, and the wider one hit the lows better but would not play as well as the same speaker in a ported box. I have a hatch back so I found the corner loading the best but again like I said, I was not impressed.

When I opened the window the sound increased tremendously, but with the window closed, it was like I was in a flat spot.

So what do you guy's think about adding tile to the walls?

Port design?

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The purpose of adding tiles would do something different than fiberglassing or 45's or will it provide the same response?

2013 Dodge Charger

Build Log


1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0
Build Log

2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe

Build Log

SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!
My Selling Feedback

Dresig1_zps7acbddbb.gif

Dresig2_zpscfb11527.gif

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