letemrip32 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Just going through AudioSavings.com for a sub/amp combo and i noticed one main thing, all the amps are under powered to the subwoofer. Has anyone else noticed this or is it just me? Like their $126.95 Kenwood sub and amp combo, the subs are rated for 200RMS and 800Max, yet the amp is only 150 bridged @ 4 OHMS per channel, but when you get up to the higher end subs like the 449.95 Apline package, you get 2 subs rated 300-600watts RMS with a peak of 2000Watts and the amp is 500 watts per channel, so it doesn't power it for the subs peak, but handles it for constant. Is this a ploy to get you to buy more subs? or is it for versatility if you just CHANGE subs on your own will (amp at diff OHMS is higher watts to allow different subs)? Also, if a subs RMS is supposed to be 1/2 of it's peak, why do some brands say that their RMS is (in some cases) 1000+ watts lower than it's peak? Will it EVER be able to reach it's max without blowing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03flairside Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 never look at the "peak" or "max" rating on a sub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathcards Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 (edited) most of them no they will not reach their max it is a gimmick used by some companies to fool ppl that they are getting a high powered sub and it is better while some hold true to it true for a certain amount of time say 30 seconds Edited January 27, 2012 by deathcards Quote skar sk2500.1 0 gauge power and ground kunukonceptz alpine HUvxi65 components on BA gt-275new build log -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150642-project-d-kon-deathcards-build-log/#entry2148821 2 x-15 sundowns singer alt, odyssey bat, and maxwell ultra caps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.director Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Any of those cheapo brands (kenwood for one) won't ever even get close to there max.. To find out the max an amp will put out, look at the fuses. If it has say a 20 Amp fuse, then 20x14 (car voltage) = 280 Watts it will never get too, because the fuse would blow. Ive also found that if you replace the fuse with one about 5 amps lower most will still not blow it, so that lowers your rating even more. It's not audiosavings btw, It's the companies making the amp. Quote Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/caleb.arnold.9809 YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/CustomAudioChannel?feature=watch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letemrip32 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 (edited) Where should I go then if i want good quality subs and amps? and plz dont say wally world! Are they still good for wires and hookups such as their cadence brands? Edited January 27, 2012 by letemrip32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious97200 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Never look at peak or max ratings on subs or on amps. Only rms matter. If you have a 600 w rms sub, you should be happy with a 400-500 w rms amp. No need to give the sub more than its rms rating, and remember that a sub doesn't need the full rms to be loud. Box and install are the bigger parts to be loud. Cadence is a good old brand. Quote black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3 ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.director Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Audiosavings has some good stuff. it's all the companies making the amps/subs Looking at there website some of the better brands: Rockford Fosgate, JL audio, Kicker, Alpine, etc. If the amp fits your needs, it really doesn't matter if it does rated power, though it really doesn't speak well for the quality of the company. Quote Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/caleb.arnold.9809 YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/CustomAudioChannel?feature=watch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letemrip32 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Never look at peak or max ratings on subs or on amps. Only rms matter. If you have a 600 w rms sub, you should be happy with a 400-500 w rms amp. No need to give the sub more than its rms rating, and remember that a sub doesn't need the full rms to be loud. Box and install are the bigger parts to be loud. Cadence is a good old brand. Yea, that's one thing i've been confused about, having an amp rated lower than my subs, last time this happend, i burned out my amp, then got an amp rated slightly higher, then blew the sub....but it was an audiobahn 10" bass tube with the 300watt amp, then i had a 600 watt jensen amp thrown on that tube, and it hit HARD for a few days, but then blew the sub lol...i had fun with it. But i just want good subs for deep hard hitting bass for added lows to my system. I dont want junk, but this'd be a build on a budget (some ppl dont have to worry about it, but i do) Right now i have a jensen xs12 125 rms sub (paid $5) on a jensen 150 amp (paid $10), and it is slightly ok, but everytime i had my sony head unit (before it got stolen:( ) at 22/34 and the amp would go into protection mode. Got annoying so i want something that's higher rated when i get a new head unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninja_v1.0 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 (edited) Just going through AudioSavings.com for a sub/amp combo and i noticed one main thing, all the amps are under powered to the subwoofer. Has anyone else noticed this or is it just me? Like their $126.95 Kenwood sub and amp combo, the subs are rated for 200RMS and 800Max, yet the amp is only 150 bridged @ 4 OHMS per channel, but when you get up to the higher end subs like the 449.95 Apline package, you get 2 subs rated 300-600watts RMS with a peak of 2000Watts and the amp is 500 watts per channel, so it doesn't power it for the subs peak, but handles it for constant. Is this a ploy to get you to buy more subs? or is it for versatility if you just CHANGE subs on your own will (amp at diff OHMS is higher watts to allow different subs)? Also, if a subs RMS is supposed to be 1/2 of it's peak, why do some brands say that their RMS is (in some cases) 1000+ watts lower than it's peak? Will it EVER be able to reach it's max without blowing? This is why they have packages like this, so when people like YOU try to put the sub "PEAK" power as you say, you can't come back and bitch when the sub is blown. Although I'm pretty sure judging by the way you are so focused on "PEAK" power you will find a way to blow them anyway. Edited January 27, 2012 by sensai_v3.6 Quote When your at the top everyone is coming for you, friends, family, haters and even those who don't know you.. my advice.. KILL EM ALL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.director Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I don't think you can burn out an amp by putting higher rated subs on it, something else must have went wrong. Quote Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/caleb.arnold.9809 YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/CustomAudioChannel?feature=watch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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