bigmightymike24 Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 yes your adding extra and bigger wires1.(+)to battery to alt 2.(-)to chassis 3.(-)engine block to batt correct me if im wrong Will this BIG 3 process have an negative effect on the charging system or the battery at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enemyofsilence Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 it is the same wire. they arent different, you are just adding more. visualize it like this. you have a cup of water and a coffee straw. you just ran and are thirsty. you try to drink the water but you can only get so much at a time because the straw is so thin. so lets say you get another straw (like the one they use for boba drinks) and use it as well. so try to drink again with the coffee straw and the boba straw. you can get satisfied faster and more efficiently than with just the coffee straw. hope that helps. thats how i usually explain it to my friends who ask me how it works edit: and to answer your second ques big mike, it doesnt have negative effects. you are helping your batt and alt. Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUBIE Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Will this BIG 3 process have an negative effect on the charging system or the battery at all? no. it will help the car on the voltage issues. actually it helps the charging system also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z71kris Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 I have an 03 Dodge Dakota. My pos. to my alternator comes from the fuse panel next to my battery. The fuse panel has about 6 inch pos. wire to the battery that connects to the same pos. post as the alternator pos. inside fuse panel. The alternator pos. wire has a fusable link that I plan on replacing with an inline fuse. Question is Would it be better to run alternator pos. straight to battery or to run it back to the post inside fuse panel? Don't know if it makes sense hope so. leave your old wireing alone.. you ADD a wire pos alt to pos bat( in line fused) you ADD a wire neg bat to ground(somewhere on your frame, somewhere that is a ground) then you ADD a wire from engine Block to ground(somewhere on your frame, somewhere that is a ground) you skip over all the fuse boxes thats already there..all you do is add the wire new to those places... 03 GMC Sierra Z71 Ext Cab l 2 15" American Bass XO's l 1 Lanzar HTG2600 l AudioVox 1510D In dash DVD l KnuKonceptz Wiring l Big Three Done with KnuKonceptz KLMX 1/0 l Infinity Reference 6022si 6-1/2" Front Door Speakers l Upgraded to 145A Alt from 105A Alt l Custom Box 2^3 under the rear bench with resined bottom, and about 4 lbs of polyfill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tek Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 so for the engine block to ground, I just find a bolt on the engine block and connect it to a ground of some sort? That is the only part of this whole thing that is a little bit confusing. bolt on engine block > battery negative ????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Dubb Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 fix the pictures please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan k. Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 Instructions dont really make sense, but you have a positive going from the altenator to the batterie, then you have a ground going from the engine block to a grounding spot, then a ground from the negative side of the batterie to the grounding spot? Is this right? 2001 Dodge Ram Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 Instructions dont really make sense, but you have a positive going from the altenator to the batterie, then you have a ground going from the engine block to a grounding spot, then a ground from the negative side of the batterie to the grounding spot? Is this right? Thats pretty much what I got from it. Someone does need to update this thread with some pics that actually show up. Im sure the 1st post would have answerd all my questions had the pictures shown up. Im pretty sure I got it figured out. Im gunna do it soon n ill post detaild pics when I do Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victor8881 Posted March 7, 2010 Report Share Posted March 7, 2010 What do you think? Any revisions needed before going public? Did you do your big 3 over your factory wiring, or did you remove the factory wiring and replace the 8g wiring with 1/0g? HU: Kenwood KDC-MP745U. Sub: AQ HDC 15 Amp: Hifonics BXi 1610D for sub, ZXi 6410 for mids highs Speakers: 6.5 premium MB Quarts components,6.5 MB Quart premium coaxial back doors Wiring: KLMX Kable 1/0g for Big 3.Double up 4g from battery to trunk...for now. Big 3: YUP! Battery: Shuriken SK-BT35 to the trunk. Randoms: Flush mounted Stinger blue digital voltmeter. Flush mounted Memphis 7band EQ- 16-EQ50. phoenix gold 2 channel line driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnold1992 Posted March 7, 2010 Report Share Posted March 7, 2010 leave factory wiring in, electricity takes the path of least resistance anyway RE se xxx 18d2 (4) Audioque 2200 (2) DC Power 270XP blue 3 C&D fr310 Stinger wiring CDT components Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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