hawke Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Hey Guys, Check this video out. He mentiones to go from ALT Negative as well... Is this correct? There's so many different ways people do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImaNoob Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Yes...It shouldnt even be called big 3 anymore..lol When i did mine on my old truck i had upgraded like 5 grounds.. 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Xs3400 1500BDCP FI BL 12 3sq @ 32hz Rockford t675 T400.2 Stinger Deadner Build Log Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawke Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Alright I did a big three upgrade according to a lot of information I've found. There are variations so, this is what I did. ---------------------------------- ALTERNATOR to POSITIVE BATTERY FUSED (80 Amp Alt - 100 Amp Fuse) NEGATIVE BATTERY to FRAME (Toyota Strut Tower, sanded the paint down) NEGATIVE BATTERY to ENGINE BLOCK (couldn't find the negative post on the alt) ---------------------------------- SHCA 1/0 Wire - SHCA Terminals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Chambers Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 We grounded the alternators ground to the batteries negative terminal and another ground to the body. I don't think we need to ground to the engine block? HU: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT Mids & Highs: ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way Lows: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 powered by JL Audio RD1500/1 Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120milDSP: AudioControl DM 810 Project Build Log Click here: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee SQ Build to see the build progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyangs Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Guys, Question #1, Wires that are longer heat up less fast than wires that are shorter because it takes longer for electricity to flow through. This is also the case that since surface area is of long range than it will also cool down faster am I correct? I am asking this question because I bought a XS Power XP Big 3 Upgrade Kit and I didn't want to have to cut the wire and mount on new terminals. Question #2, Do you really need to fuse the 1/0 wire from alternator to batt (positive). I always thought if you fused the Lead power wire to your amp, it would suffice. I am asking this question because I don't want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #3, I have a 200amp fuse on 1/0 Lead power wire to a distro Block but I don't have fuses from distro block to (4 gauge wire) to dual amps. Do I need to fuse lead wires from distro block to my dual amps? I am asking this question because I dont want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #4, I have a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP that has a MAX AMP of 200 amps but Average draw according to spec is 100 amps. Also I have a Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab that has a max amp of 60 amps but average draw according to spec is 30 amps. If I run 200 amp fuse on the lead power wire will that be sufficient for my amps? Question #5, I bought a 180 amp HOA from DC Engineering. I was wondering if that 180 amp HOA would suffice for approximately 2000w rms. Question #6, Is it okay to use a Distro Block for grounding two amps to one 1/0 gauge ground Setup: 2002 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS -Big 3 Upgrade: Power XS XP Big 3 upgrade Kit-1/0 Gauge Wires -SuperStart Platinum AGM Batt 35/85 (Rebranded Deka Intimidator Batt) -DC Power 180amp HP Alternator -Sony gs610bt Single Din @ 5volt preamp out -6.5 x2 Polk Audio MM Coaxial Front Speakers -5.25 x2 Polk Audio MM Coaxial Rear Speakers -1/0 Gauge power wire to distribution block -Rockford Fosgate T400-4 AB @ 4 Gauge Wire Batt/Ground -Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP @ 4 Gauge Wire Batt/Ground -2000w RMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Guys, Question #1, Wires that are longer heat up less fast than wires that are shorter because it takes longer for electricity to flow through. This is also the case that since surface area is of long range than it will also cool down faster am I correct? I am asking this question because I bought a XS Power XP Big 3 Upgrade Kit and I didn't want to have to cut the wire and mount on new terminals. Question #2, Do you really need to fuse the 1/0 wire from alternator to batt (positive). I always thought if you fused the Lead power wire to your amp, it would suffice. I am asking this question because I don't want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #3, I have a 200amp fuse on 1/0 Lead power wire to a distro Block but I don't have fuses from distro block to (4 gauge wire) to dual amps. Do I need to fuse lead wires from distro block to my dual amps? I am asking this question because I dont want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #4, I have a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP that has a MAX AMP of 200 amps but Average draw according to spec is 100 amps. Also I have a Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab that has a max amp of 60 amps but average draw according to spec is 30 amps. If I run 200 amp fuse on the lead power wire will that be sufficient for my amps? Question #5, I bought a 180 amp HOA from DC Engineering. I was wondering if that 180 amp HOA would suffice for approximately 2000w rms. Question #6, Is it okay to use a Distro Block for grounding two amps to one 1/0 gauge ground Setup: 2002 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS -Big 3 Upgrade: Power XS XP Big 3 upgrade Kit-1/0 Gauge Wires -SuperStart Platinum AGM Batt 35/85 (Rebranded Deka Intimidator Batt) -DC Power 180amp HP Alternator -Sony gs610bt Single Din @ 5volt preamp out -6.5 x2 Polk Audio MM Coaxial Front Speakers -5.25 x2 Polk Audio MM Coaxial Rear Speakers -1/0 Gauge power wire to distribution block -Rockford Fosgate T400-4 AB @ 4 Gauge Wire Batt/Ground -Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP @ 4 Gauge Wire Batt/Ground -2000w RMS Hi Kyangs, welcome to the forum. I will respond to your questions but you will have better luck and get better input going forward when you start your own threads for questions you have about your own system. You will find this forum more enjoyable when you do so. On to your questions. Question #1, Wires that are longer heat up less fast than wires that are shorter because it takes longer for electricity to flow through. This is also the case that since surface area is of long range than it will also cool down faster am I correct? More surface area will usually yield those results, but in our hobby it is best to keep your runs as short as possible. The best way to manage heat issues is making sure you are wired to manage the current draw by using enough runs of proper sized wire. Amongst most here, overkill is the norm. A couple of inches of extra wires won't be enough for you to hear a difference though. I am asking this question because I bought a XS Power XP Big 3 Upgrade Kit and I didn't want to have to cut the wire and mount on new terminals. Question #2, Do you really need to fuse the 1/0 wire from alternator to batt (positive). I always thought if you fused the Lead power wire to your amp, it would suffice. I am asking this question because I don't want to fuse unless I really need to. Most don't fuse the charge lead because if the alt isn't spinning it isn't putting out any juice. Any wire that touches power storage needs to be fused, period. Fuse at or below what the wire is rated for. This could save your life so don't skimp on this area. Question #3, I have a 200amp fuse on 1/0 Lead power wire to a distro Block but I don't have fuses from distro block to (4 gauge wire) to dual amps. Do I need to fuse lead wires from distro block to my dual amps? As long as you are fused near the battery you are ok, you can fuse each amp but not necessary. I will say this; it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. I am asking this question because I dont want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #4, I have a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP that has a MAX AMP of 200 amps but Average draw according to spec is 100 amps. Also I have a Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab that has a max amp of 60 amps but average draw according to spec is 30 amps. If I run 200 amp fuse on the lead power wire will that be sufficient for my amps? On music, you will be fine. You aren't going to see rated power from those amps in hardly any scenario. Question #5, I bought a 180 amp HOA from DC Engineering. I was wondering if that 180 amp HOA would suffice for approximately 2000w rms. yes, that alt is more than capable of supporting 2k on music. Question #6, Is it okay to use a Distro Block for grounding two amps to one 1/0 gauge ground Yes, but again, keep those wires as short as possible and make sure the ground is a good one. Alot of people think their grounds are good when they aren't. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyangs Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Guys, Question #1, Wires that are longer heat up less fast than wires that are shorter because it takes longer for electricity to flow through. This is also the case that since surface area is of long range than it will also cool down faster am I correct? I am asking this question because I bought a XS Power XP Big 3 Upgrade Kit and I didn't want to have to cut the wire and mount on new terminals. Question #2, Do you really need to fuse the 1/0 wire from alternator to batt (positive). I always thought if you fused the Lead power wire to your amp, it would suffice. I am asking this question because I don't want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #3, I have a 200amp fuse on 1/0 Lead power wire to a distro Block but I don't have fuses from distro block to (4 gauge wire) to dual amps. Do I need to fuse lead wires from distro block to my dual amps? I am asking this question because I dont want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #4, I have a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP that has a MAX AMP of 200 amps but Average draw according to spec is 100 amps. Also I have a Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab that has a max amp of 60 amps but average draw according to spec is 30 amps. If I run 200 amp fuse on the lead power wire will that be sufficient for my amps? Question #5, I bought a 180 amp HOA from DC Engineering. I was wondering if that 180 amp HOA would suffice for approximately 2000w rms. Question #6, Is it okay to use a Distro Block for grounding two amps to one 1/0 gauge ground Setup: 2002 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS -Big 3 Upgrade: Power XS XP Big 3 upgrade Kit-1/0 Gauge Wires -SuperStart Platinum AGM Batt 35/85 (Rebranded Deka Intimidator Batt) -DC Power 180amp HP Alternator -Sony gs610bt Single Din @ 5volt preamp out -6.5 x2 Polk Audio MM Coaxial Front Speakers -5.25 x2 Polk Audio MM Coaxial Rear Speakers -1/0 Gauge power wire to distribution block -Rockford Fosgate T400-4 AB @ 4 Gauge Wire Batt/Ground -Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP @ 4 Gauge Wire Batt/Ground -2000w RMS Hi Kyangs, welcome to the forum. I will respond to your questions but you will have better luck and get better input going forward when you start your own threads for questions you have about your own system. You will find this forum more enjoyable when you do so. On to your questions. Question #1, Wires that are longer heat up less fast than wires that are shorter because it takes longer for electricity to flow through. This is also the case that since surface area is of long range than it will also cool down faster am I correct? More surface area will usually yield those results, but in our hobby it is best to keep your runs as short as possible. The best way to manage heat issues is making sure you are wired to manage the current draw by using enough runs of proper sized wire. Amongst most here, overkill is the norm. A couple of inches of extra wires won't be enough for you to hear a difference though. I am asking this question because I bought a XS Power XP Big 3 Upgrade Kit and I didn't want to have to cut the wire and mount on new terminals. Question #2, Do you really need to fuse the 1/0 wire from alternator to batt (positive). I always thought if you fused the Lead power wire to your amp, it would suffice. I am asking this question because I don't want to fuse unless I really need to. Most don't fuse the charge lead because if the alt isn't spinning it isn't putting out any juice. Any wire that touches power storage needs to be fused, period. Fuse at or below what the wire is rated for. This could save your life so don't skimp on this area. Question #3, I have a 200amp fuse on 1/0 Lead power wire to a distro Block but I don't have fuses from distro block to (4 gauge wire) to dual amps. Do I need to fuse lead wires from distro block to my dual amps? As long as you are fused near the battery you are ok, you can fuse each amp but not necessary. I will say this; it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. I am asking this question because I dont want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #4, I have a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP that has a MAX AMP of 200 amps but Average draw according to spec is 100 amps. Also I have a Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab that has a max amp of 60 amps but average draw according to spec is 30 amps. If I run 200 amp fuse on the lead power wire will that be sufficient for my amps? On music, you will be fine. You aren't going to see rated power from those amps in hardly any scenario. Question #5, I bought a 180 amp HOA from DC Engineering. I was wondering if that 180 amp HOA would suffice for approximately 2000w rms. yes, that alt is more than capable of supporting 2k on music. Question #6, Is it okay to use a Distro Block for grounding two amps to one 1/0 gauge ground Yes, but again, keep those wires as short as possible and make sure the ground is a good one. Alot of people think their grounds are good when they aren't. Thanks for everything. I have been to other forums before and did the whole creating a new forum topic and yielded no response. I do apologize for this moving forward I will create a new forum topic. Thanks for such a great response back. Below is a link to my Big three upgrade and upgraded amp power wires from 8 gauge to 4 gauge: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: Part 4: I moved to a Big Four Upgrade: 1/0 Batt (Postive) to Alternator 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to Driver Side Strut 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to A/C Compressor 1/0 Engine to Passenger Side Strut Kept the Stock Wiring in place 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Tranny 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Fender 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Postive) to Alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hi Guys, Question #1, Wires that are longer heat up less fast than wires that are shorter because it takes longer for electricity to flow through. This is also the case that since surface area is of long range than it will also cool down faster am I correct? I am asking this question because I bought a XS Power XP Big 3 Upgrade Kit and I didn't want to have to cut the wire and mount on new terminals. Question #2, Do you really need to fuse the 1/0 wire from alternator to batt (positive). I always thought if you fused the Lead power wire to your amp, it would suffice. I am asking this question because I don't want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #3, I have a 200amp fuse on 1/0 Lead power wire to a distro Block but I don't have fuses from distro block to (4 gauge wire) to dual amps. Do I need to fuse lead wires from distro block to my dual amps? I am asking this question because I dont want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #4, I have a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP that has a MAX AMP of 200 amps but Average draw according to spec is 100 amps. Also I have a Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab that has a max amp of 60 amps but average draw according to spec is 30 amps. If I run 200 amp fuse on the lead power wire will that be sufficient for my amps? Question #5, I bought a 180 amp HOA from DC Engineering. I was wondering if that 180 amp HOA would suffice for approximately 2000w rms. Question #6, Is it okay to use a Distro Block for grounding two amps to one 1/0 gauge ground Setup: 2002 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS -Big 3 Upgrade: Power XS XP Big 3 upgrade Kit-1/0 Gauge Wires -SuperStart Platinum AGM Batt 35/85 (Rebranded Deka Intimidator Batt) -DC Power 180amp HP Alternator -Sony gs610bt Single Din @ 5volt preamp out -6.5 x2 Polk Audio MM Coaxial Front Speakers -5.25 x2 Polk Audio MM Coaxial Rear Speakers -1/0 Gauge power wire to distribution block -Rockford Fosgate T400-4 AB @ 4 Gauge Wire Batt/Ground -Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP @ 4 Gauge Wire Batt/Ground -2000w RMS Hi Kyangs, welcome to the forum. I will respond to your questions but you will have better luck and get better input going forward when you start your own threads for questions you have about your own system. You will find this forum more enjoyable when you do so. On to your questions. Question #1, Wires that are longer heat up less fast than wires that are shorter because it takes longer for electricity to flow through. This is also the case that since surface area is of long range than it will also cool down faster am I correct? More surface area will usually yield those results, but in our hobby it is best to keep your runs as short as possible. The best way to manage heat issues is making sure you are wired to manage the current draw by using enough runs of proper sized wire. Amongst most here, overkill is the norm. A couple of inches of extra wires won't be enough for you to hear a difference though. I am asking this question because I bought a XS Power XP Big 3 Upgrade Kit and I didn't want to have to cut the wire and mount on new terminals. Question #2, Do you really need to fuse the 1/0 wire from alternator to batt (positive). I always thought if you fused the Lead power wire to your amp, it would suffice. I am asking this question because I don't want to fuse unless I really need to. Most don't fuse the charge lead because if the alt isn't spinning it isn't putting out any juice. Any wire that touches power storage needs to be fused, period. Fuse at or below what the wire is rated for. This could save your life so don't skimp on this area. Question #3, I have a 200amp fuse on 1/0 Lead power wire to a distro Block but I don't have fuses from distro block to (4 gauge wire) to dual amps. Do I need to fuse lead wires from distro block to my dual amps? As long as you are fused near the battery you are ok, you can fuse each amp but not necessary. I will say this; it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. I am asking this question because I dont want to fuse unless I really need to. Question #4, I have a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP that has a MAX AMP of 200 amps but Average draw according to spec is 100 amps. Also I have a Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab that has a max amp of 60 amps but average draw according to spec is 30 amps. If I run 200 amp fuse on the lead power wire will that be sufficient for my amps? On music, you will be fine. You aren't going to see rated power from those amps in hardly any scenario. Question #5, I bought a 180 amp HOA from DC Engineering. I was wondering if that 180 amp HOA would suffice for approximately 2000w rms. yes, that alt is more than capable of supporting 2k on music. Question #6, Is it okay to use a Distro Block for grounding two amps to one 1/0 gauge ground Yes, but again, keep those wires as short as possible and make sure the ground is a good one. Alot of people think their grounds are good when they aren't. Thanks for everything. I have been to other forums before and did the whole creating a new forum topic and yielded no response. I do apologize for this moving forward I will create a new forum topic. Thanks for such a great response back. Below is a link to my Big three upgrade and upgraded amp power wires from 8 gauge to 4 gauge: I moved to a Big Four Upgrade: 1/0 Batt (Postive) to Alternator 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to Driver Side Strut 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to A/C Compressor <--- Not doing anything for your audio, move it to a mounting bolt on the alt. Alt case to strut tower would be ideal. 1/0 Engine to Passenger Side Strut Kept the Stock Wiring in place 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Tranny 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Fender 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Postive) to Alternator Also, keep all of your grounds on the same side of the vehicle, so drivers side or passengers side. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyangs Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I moved to a Big Four Upgrade: 1/0 Batt (Postive) to Alternator 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to Driver Side Strut 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to A/C Compressor <--- Not doing anything for your audio, move it to a mounting bolt on the alt. Alt case to strut tower would be ideal. -Since the A/C compressor shares the same mount as the alternator is it still alright to mount it to the A/C compressor? 1/0 Engine to Passenger Side Strut Kept the Stock Wiring in place 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Tranny 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Fender 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Postive) to Alternator Also, keep all of your grounds on the same side of the vehicle, so drivers side or passengers side. <--------I will do it first thing when I get home from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I moved to a Big Four Upgrade: 1/0 Batt (Postive) to Alternator 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to Driver Side Strut 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to A/C Compressor <--- Not doing anything for your audio, move it to a mounting bolt on the alt. Alt case to strut tower would be ideal. -Since the A/C compressor shares the same mount as the alternator is it still alright to mount it to the A/C compressor? 1/0 Engine to Passenger Side Strut Kept the Stock Wiring in place 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Tranny 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Fender 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Postive) to Alternator Also, keep all of your grounds on the same side of the vehicle, so drivers side or passengers side. <--------I will do it first thing when I get home from work. The red arrow is where you have the wire ran to now correct? It doesn't look like the alt mounts there. If it were me, I would put it where the green arrow is, between the bolt head and the alternator. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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