klrsrt Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Hi, new here ...and this will be my first real build, I've had audio just not to this extent/power. I drive an '01 doublecab Tacoma that's my daily, but turning more into an offroad toy...replacing the rear seat area with box, amps mounted to box. I already plan on getting a 200a alternator, Big 3, and dual agm battery setup with an isolator. Also I'm replacing my flooring with herculiner 3layers, then going to put some secondskin deadener on the doors/panels/roof. Plan on: Pioneer H/U with screen Front: Polk MM6501's or should I get the MM6's? Rear Fill: Help, not sure? Prolly need something that can handle 125-150rms like the fronts Amp: Hifonics ZXi150.4 Subs: 2 RE 15" SProX @ 1ohm, in an 8cuft. ported @ 34-38Hz Amp: Hifonics BRZ2100.1D, would that extra 100 watts hurt them seeing as how they're rated for 1000rms? Like I said I'm new to this much power, so sorry if I come off cautious/dumb. So please give me your thoughts and suggestions BALLIN ON A BUDGET!!! YEA BUDDY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punkrockprs Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 (edited) haha nvm '01 tacoma missed that. cant wait to see you get started Edited February 1, 2012 by punkrockprs Quote C-Fizzy, on 01 April 2012 - 01:06 PM, said: Clip city bitch, clip clip city bitch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames bitch. Check out my build thread http://www.stevemead...product-page-2/ New build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/172646-punkrocks-97-civic-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klrsrt Posted February 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Is there any better subs for that price range that I should look into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noob_On_Droid Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 What do you want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 for highs i like the 6501! and why not jsut do 6501s for rear as well? if not do MM651 they can take 125rms clean Quote Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Don't use an isolator. Its fucking terrible for the alternator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klrsrt Posted February 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 What do you want? I'm not looking to do any competitions, just lookin to beat down the block hard haha. So I want something to sound decent and loud, which I know you have to make sacrifices in one of those to have the other, and not just be about SPL...something middle groundish for highs i like the 6501! and why not jsut do 6501s for rear as well? if not do MM651 they can take 125rms clean I might just end up doing the '01s all the way around. If not I was planning on the 651s like you said. Don't use an isolator. Its fucking terrible for the alternator Can you tell me why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Instead of using an isolator, just put that money towards an AGM battery for up front so you won't need an isolator. Quote Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Can you tell me why? because isolators cut the battery off from being charged from the alternator so the amp is going to be pulling all that power from it and dropping the voltage like a motherfucker and draining the crap out of the battery. then when the voltage drops past a certain point, the isolator switches it back so the alt can charge it. alts HATE charging dead batteries. it puts a LOT of stress on it and can cause it to fail prematurely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 Can you tell me why? because isolators cut the battery off from being charged from the alternator so the amp is going to be pulling all that power from it and dropping the voltage like a motherfucker and draining the crap out of the battery. then when the voltage drops past a certain point, the isolator switches it back so the alt can charge it. alts HATE charging dead batteries. it puts a LOT of stress on it and can cause it to fail prematurely. /\ this..... i HAD an isolator..... used it for a couple months then noticed how hot my alternator was getting...... heat is not good at all for alts. just run both batteries off of your alt. alt and batteries will prolly last longer..... well the alt definitly will and if you do it this way you have way less voltage drop cuz you have 2 batts running the system instead of 1. the ONLY time an isolator should be used is if you listen to the stereo for hours at a time and dont wanna kill your starting battery. Mobile home style lol i have an isolator sittin around right now and its the worst $100 i spent. Quote i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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