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damn man u got skiils. and how exactly did u do that oval shape on that aluminum?

Drilled a big enuff hole in it and used a flush trim bit on a router. since the bit is round i only went so far and just stopped. Then I went back with a very small radius round over bit to give the edge that taper.

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Ok, I've kinda been dreading trying to explain how I made the factory steering wheel controls for track forward, track back and Play/Pause work with the Ipad. First I searched and found a remote the uses RF so it didnt need direct line of sight. What I found was perfect, The iJet NAV. The iJet uses the ipad's dock connector to receive the signal from its remote, the beautiful thing about it is that the connector also allows for full 30 pin pass thru. So basically I can plug the ijet in and on top of that i can add my line out for audio and charging. So at this point I just have a wireless remote control for the Ipad. Not bad but not factory clean enough for me so I pulled the steering wheel apart and checked out the board for the steering wheel controls. My plan was to simply solder onto the switches in the iJet and run them to the switches on the steering wheel. I first thought I could tap into the connecitons on the board and be able to just push the OEM button and it would in turn complete the circuit for the corresponding switch on the remote. Long story short is that it was not possible. So I went back to the drawing board.....and it hit me. Membrane switches! The new plan was to slide the membrane switches in bewteen the factory switch and board so that when you push the button it actually is pressing another one down to make contact. I found some on ebay and ordered them up. They are less than 1mm thick so the clearance is perfect and they come with 3M adhesive backing already on. Once the switches arrived, I pulled the steering wheel back apart again to place my new membrane switches in between the factory ones. I had to trim a pretty good bit off the edges so that they didnt cover the LEDs that illuminate the buttons and so they would line up with the button that would be pushing them. Once I had them in place I reassembled that portion of the wheel and tested the buttons....All working on the first try. Then it was on to soldering the leads onto the iJet's buttons. Once I found the correct pins to solder to on the remote, I just had to connect those leads to the ones coming off the membrane switches. After some outside the car testing I was pleased and began to reinstall the steering wheel parts. The iJet is fairly small and i was able to fit it in the steering wheel and basically just hot glued it in place before putting the air bag back in. I think that covers the basics, Im sure I have left out a few things. This was more difficult than it looks but it is awesome now that its done. Heres some pix, sorry I missed some steps when I was to anxious to get it working.

Heres the Ingredients iJET NAV remote, Membrane switches and One steering wheel with factory audio controls.

7075562295_e6a2fa5c6e_b.jpg

IMG_1792 by rogueauto, on Flickr

The raw board with the membrane switches trimmed down and in place

7075562463_fa23163f22_b.jpg

IMG_1793 by rogueauto, on Flickr

The leads coming off the membrane switches after the board was reinstalled

7075562625_19bc644983_b.jpg

IMG_1794 by rogueauto, on Flickr

The leads coming off the iJET after solder and heat shrink

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IMG_1795 by rogueauto, on Flickr

At this point I forgot to take any further pix but basically I just attached the wires from one switch to another and the reinstalled the wheel. Now the wheel looks the exact same as it did before the mod so I didnt bother to take a finished picture of the install but I do plan to make a Vid at some point to show the functions working and the other features of the install so stay tuned..........

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Another small update is that my neighbor who also works with me was able to score me a large enuff piece of plate aluminum that i will be using to complete the rear panel. I have given him the dimensions on it and hes gonna try to get it on the milling machine at work for me so we can cut it down to size and then recess the edge to accomodate the angle aluminum. Unfortunately the milling machine broke a small part which is a minor setback but i think it will be back up this week. I would have tried to do it myself with the router but it is 5mm thick aluminum so i figured milling machine would do it a little more safely than i could. Hope he gets it done soon, its almost the last piece of the puzzle before i can add a motor to the slides.

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Another little something that was neccessary that I did. The regular dock connectors stick out about an inch from the ipad, thus getting in the way of the dash so I modded one and now it sticks out only around a 1/4" or so.

6949419092_207682f95f_b.jpg

IMG_1799 by rogueauto, on Flickr

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