neuspeedescort Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Posted March 1, 2012 i personally run a small audio install business out of my garage. so i try to keep things as professional as possible. i pay my taxes every quarter for thsi business also. so its nice for me to have a write off no and then. but even then i have to spend money to make money and vise versa. i have some tools i use maybe once a year. but when i need damn they are nice to have! NEUMAN
LoudBimmer Posted March 1, 2012 Report Posted March 1, 2012 I will try out my "cheap" crimper to see how well it works tonight. As long as it seats tight in there, connection will be fine.
LoudBimmer Posted March 1, 2012 Report Posted March 1, 2012 i personally run a small audio install business out of my garage. so i try to keep things as professional as possible. i pay my taxes every quarter for thsi business also. so its nice for me to have a write off no and then. but even then i have to spend money to make money and vise versa. i have some tools i use maybe once a year. but when i need damn they are nice to have! NEUMAN In your case I would buy one, because it will pay off. Your investing money, to make money.
n8ball2013 Posted March 2, 2012 Report Posted March 2, 2012 Thats not a very good connection. not at all. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
LoudBimmer Posted March 2, 2012 Report Posted March 2, 2012 it seats really tight in there. I tried it pull it out of there with no luck.
Decaf Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 What about solid copper lugs? Imagine how much less effective it would be without that split to wedge the wire left and right Connection is OK, won't heatshrink well at all for under the hood applications where corrosion is an issue.
LoudBimmer Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 What about solid copper lugs? Imagine how much less effective it would be without that split to wedge the wire left and right Connection is OK, won't heatshrink well at all for under the hood applications where corrosion is an issue. I got them off ebay and the seller mentioned that they were solid copper lugs. Fucker lied. I will be ordering new copper lugs.
SnowDrifter Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 I'd take off those lugs, strip a new chunk of wire, and just solder it. Those look like imminent doom ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
LoudBimmer Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 I'd take off those lugs, strip a new chunk of wire, and just solder it. Those look like imminent doom crimping is better. There was a thread about crimping wire vs. soldering
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