aquill1 Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 Here is the deal, I want a little bit of bass in the vehicle I'm thinking of getting in the near future and need a little help. I by no means want anything that is going to go to sound competitions or anything just something to add a little bass. The vehicle will be a mercury mountaineer (ford explorer) and I will want to upgrade the stock speakers with some components hooked to a 4 channel amp and than a sub in the rear (custom fit into the rear panel where the stock sub is located) hooked to a rockford fosgate p550.2 (I have it brand new and can't get rid of it so I might as well hang onto it.) My question is this, that amp puts out I think, over 600 rms on the birth sheet which I won't need as the sub I'm looking at is only 450rms but I'll keep the gain way down. Also the 4 channel amp I'll get will be rated I'd imagine at or near 50 rms/ channel hooked to some mb quarts so total there is probably 200 rms. So total I'll be looking at say 600 to say 900 rms. If I upgrade just the big 3 should my electrical system be alright? Sorry for the novel here but I'm curious because I want to keep this as stock as possible. If the big 3 weren't enough would I be able to just add a h/o alt? I always thought that the rule of thumb was 1000watts rms before your electrical system needs anything but I've been mislead as even 300 watts rms has made lights dim...Thanks and sorry again for the novel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 your electrical should be alright if the big three is done correctly and u use the correct power wire for your amp (around 4 awg is fine) Quote DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torres Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 agreed. it should be good, but upgrading an alt wouldnt be a bad idea if you're gettin close to 900 watts. you could always get a bigger alt without it being a H/O at. will have more amps in it, and wont cost as much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquill1 Posted December 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 The cost of bigger alts is actually right around the price your man dom quoted me so I'd probably just go big or go home if it came to that...it wouldn't hurt my electrical system getting a bigger alt would it? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 The cost of bigger alts is actually right around the price your man dom quoted me so I'd probably just go big or go home if it came to that...it wouldn't hurt my electrical system getting a bigger alt would it? Thanks again! no it wouldn't hurt your electrical system to get a bigger alternator but with what you are running you don't need it. now if you plan on upgrading to more power down the road then by all means then upgrade to a bigger alternator along with running some 1/0 gauge instead of 4 gauge. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquill1 Posted December 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 (edited) no it wouldn't hurt your electrical system to get a bigger alternator but with what you are running you don't need it. now if you plan on upgrading to more power down the road then by all means then upgrade to a bigger alternator along with running some 1/0 gauge instead of 4 gauge. Oh for sure the big 3 would be in order...I'd probably run 0 awg for the amp...Thanks again...Here's the prices he gave me 180 $399 200 $419 220 $439 Considering that I'd just go as big as possible considering the cost difference is nothing and I'd always have an upgradeable electrical system Edited December 8, 2007 by aquill1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 Oh for sure the big 3 would be in order...I'd probably run 0 awg for the amp...Thanks again...Here's the prices he gave me 180 $399 200 $419 220 $439 Considering that I'd just go as big as possible considering the cost difference is nothing and I'd always have an upgradeable electrical system looking at the prices you might as well go with the 220 but yet ask yourself how much of a difference in idle amperage will you lose with going with the biggest alternator? do you care about idle power? Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquill1 Posted December 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 looking at the prices you might as well go with the 220 but yet ask yourself how much of a difference in idle amperage will you lose with going with the biggest alternator? do you care about idle power? Is that what changes going to a h/o alt? I wouldn't mind knowing all the ins and outs of getting a better one? Will it make the idle spike when idling? I'd hate that I like smooth clean idling... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 as i've heard that's the down fall of going with an HO alternator ........ not much idle power. now you'll have more idle power than your stock alternator so that's a good thing. but you can always rev the gas a little. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquill1 Posted December 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 (edited) as i've heard that's the down fall of going with an HO alternator ........ not much idle power. now you'll have more idle power than your stock alternator so that's a good thing. but you can always rev the gas a little. Hmmm? You mean idle power for the system not the engine correct? By losing power I imagine you guys are just speaking of the lag it puts on the drivetrain...kind of like when your a/c is on the car doesn't accelerate as fast? So much for a quick question huh! Edited December 9, 2007 by aquill1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.