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HELP IS THIS A GOOD GROUND ??


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Its a decent ground, but for the 2500 you say your running in your sig, I wouldnt use that. At the least I would drill and tap the frame to use for the ground. The best thing I would do is do a neg run back to the front batt. that will help with adding extra batts in the back too.

im just running the t1000.4 and the processors off that but for the two t2500 im doing it off the chassis well actually im doing two batteries in the back so the two t2500 can get the ground off the two batteries and the two batteries off the chassis with the big 3

CURRENT SYSTEM

(VEHICLE) 2005 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE

(HEAD UNIT) KENWOOD KDC BT848U

(DASHBOARD) INFINITY KAPPA 32.9CF

(FRONT DOOR) JBL P693

(REAR DOOR) KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-X1730

(TWEETER) KICKER KS25 X 2

(SUB WOOFER) COMING SOON

(4 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T1000-4ADCP

(1 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T2500BDCP X 2

(PROCESSORS) AUDIOCONTROL DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX PLUS & DDC

(BATTERY) 1 OPTIMA YELLOW TOP

(SIGNAL WIRES) KICKER XI

(POWER CABLES) KICKER PKD1

(SPEAKER WIRE) KICKER 12 GAUGE

(INTERIOR) DYNAMAT

COMING SOON

2 FI SP4 18 COMING SOON

2 XS POWER XP3000 COMING SOON

DC POWER 270XP ALT COMING SOON

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I would do 2 runs from the engine bay back to the batteries, one on the engine and the other from the front battery all the way back to your extra bank along with a pair of grounds to the body and or chassis of the car. You can never have enough ground wires ran in a car especially with today's modern electronics installed.

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Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

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Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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Its a decent ground, but for the 2500 you say your running in your sig, I wouldnt use that. At the least I would drill and tap the frame to use for the ground. The best thing I would do is do a neg run back to the front batt. that will help with adding extra batts in the back too.

im just running the t1000.4 and the processors off that but for the two t2500 im doing it off the chassis well actually im doing two batteries in the back so the two t2500 can get the ground off the two batteries and the two batteries off the chassis with the big 3

Ok, let me see if I understand what you're trying to say here. You're gonna run two batts in the back, and ground those to the chassis. If this is the case, then why wouldn't you use the same grounding point for everything else? Just seems like a common sense thing to do - use the same ground for everything. It would help eliminate any possible grounding issues if everything was grounded together in the same location with a good ground point.

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I would do 2 runs from the engine bay back to the batteries, one on the engine and the other from the front battery all the way back to your extra bank along with a pair of grounds to the body and or chassis of the car. You can never have enough ground wires ran in a car especially with today's modern electronics installed.

can i weld a metal plate on the chassis then connect the front battery there then weld a metal plate in the back and connect the two back batteries there would that work too ??????

CURRENT SYSTEM

(VEHICLE) 2005 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE

(HEAD UNIT) KENWOOD KDC BT848U

(DASHBOARD) INFINITY KAPPA 32.9CF

(FRONT DOOR) JBL P693

(REAR DOOR) KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-X1730

(TWEETER) KICKER KS25 X 2

(SUB WOOFER) COMING SOON

(4 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T1000-4ADCP

(1 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T2500BDCP X 2

(PROCESSORS) AUDIOCONTROL DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX PLUS & DDC

(BATTERY) 1 OPTIMA YELLOW TOP

(SIGNAL WIRES) KICKER XI

(POWER CABLES) KICKER PKD1

(SPEAKER WIRE) KICKER 12 GAUGE

(INTERIOR) DYNAMAT

COMING SOON

2 FI SP4 18 COMING SOON

2 XS POWER XP3000 COMING SOON

DC POWER 270XP ALT COMING SOON

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Best locations are strut towers since you have multiple sheets of metal welded there for strength and will allow the best transfer, use an alt bracket for the engine and ground on the battery under the hood since you will be running 2 2500's off the battery bank in back.

EDIT: Also make a pair of runs in the front from chassis to body and in back also from body to chassis, they won't need to be long but will allow as much transfer as possible and help eliminate any possible ground issues.

Edited by Skullz

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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Best locations are strut towers since you have multiple sheets of metal welded there for strength and will allow the best transfer, use an alt bracket for the engine and ground on the battery under the hood since you will be running 2 2500's off the battery bank in back.

EDIT: Also make a pair of runs in the front from chassis to body and in back also from body to chassis, they won't need to be long but will allow as much transfer as possible and help eliminate any possible ground issues.

today i connect my power wire 0 gauge from front to back i dont have no more 0 gauge wire i should be getting a spool soon

CURRENT SYSTEM

(VEHICLE) 2005 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE

(HEAD UNIT) KENWOOD KDC BT848U

(DASHBOARD) INFINITY KAPPA 32.9CF

(FRONT DOOR) JBL P693

(REAR DOOR) KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-X1730

(TWEETER) KICKER KS25 X 2

(SUB WOOFER) COMING SOON

(4 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T1000-4ADCP

(1 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T2500BDCP X 2

(PROCESSORS) AUDIOCONTROL DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX PLUS & DDC

(BATTERY) 1 OPTIMA YELLOW TOP

(SIGNAL WIRES) KICKER XI

(POWER CABLES) KICKER PKD1

(SPEAKER WIRE) KICKER 12 GAUGE

(INTERIOR) DYNAMAT

COMING SOON

2 FI SP4 18 COMING SOON

2 XS POWER XP3000 COMING SOON

DC POWER 270XP ALT COMING SOON

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You guys are tripping me out with all this chassis and frame talk.... I am pretty sure that a Jeep Grand Cherokee is a Unibody with no frame.

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