BEEMDUB Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 I personally like grounding to the chassis. Reason being is EVERY TIME I've grounded to my battery I'll get terrible whine. I actually have a charger too. The stock ground isn't bad, I'd try both and see which one you like more. do you have a pioneer deck by chance? Yup, I never found a way around that stupid pico fuse problem. hmm maybe your whine was because of your h/u then?
Toofast4u Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 I personally like grounding to the chassis. Reason being is EVERY TIME I've grounded to my battery I'll get terrible whine. I actually have a charger too. The stock ground isn't bad, I'd try both and see which one you like more. do you have a pioneer deck by chance? Yup, I never found a way around that stupid pico fuse problem. hmm maybe your whine was because of your h/u then? That's what it seems like. There's a way to fix it permanently but I never got around to it. Switching my ground from the battery to chassis stopped it though. Like I said before, the problem only happens with my front stage amp.
BEEMDUB Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 I personally like grounding to the chassis. Reason being is EVERY TIME I've grounded to my battery I'll get terrible whine. I actually have a charger too. The stock ground isn't bad, I'd try both and see which one you like more. do you have a pioneer deck by chance? Yup, I never found a way around that stupid pico fuse problem. hmm maybe your whine was because of your h/u then? That's what it seems like. There's a way to fix it permanently but I never got around to it. Switching my ground from the battery to chassis stopped it though. Like I said before, the problem only happens with my front stage amp. I'm pretty sure I read that soldering your rca outputs to the frame of the h/u fix that
uhoh_45 Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 Boosh- dont give bad information and ground your rcas R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log
SmallTruk Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 I always ground straight to the batteries I see no reason to ground to the frame other than laziness. Why spend a shit load of cash for good OFC wire and terminals only to connect it to the mild steel chassis that does nothing but add resistance?
rogue Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 Cant explain why and my own logic tells me to go straight to battery too but I had the same noise issues by grounding to the battery. Cant explain it but when changed to chassis it went away. And no I dont have a pioneer. and it made the noise with no head unit even connected. Noise issues are some of the most aggervating bugs in car audio. BMW X5 Stealth Build w/ IPAD BMW 325i Rear Deck Digital Designs Build BMW 325i Car PC Touchscreen Bezel Build
Noobtastic14 Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 Grounding to the battery is optimal as long as the battery ground to chassis is upgraded to the same size wire or bigger of your amp. -Drew I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
JasonJones Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 What most people said. Ground directly to the battery so long as the ground from your battery is equal to what is required of your amplifier. The reason why you're getting noise from the different options is because you are creating a ground potential difference by using multiple grounding points or poor grounding points. The reason why people say to ground your RCAs is it eliminates the chance of the Amp trying to ground through the RCAs. To put it simply get a good ground to the frame(check if you have a unibody or body on frame style vehicle) and run that ground to your rear battery and then run your amps from that. Also you can test the difference in potential between grounding points to isolate if that is a problem using a DMM.
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