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RE SXX 12 bottoming out?


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What's up guys? This is my first post but I've always been a big fan of this forum... But, I've got a problem. I just got my system installed in my new car. I have 2 re audio sxx powered off of an arc audio ks1200.1 and an arc audio ks1000.1. ( had 2 ks 1000.1's but when there was a problem recently they sent me a new ks1200 instead.) Anyway, one of the subs works perfect, but the other bottoms out on every low note. The amp settings on that sub are turned down to where it hardly even moves with high bass. But when it hits the low note it still bottoms out. Also it seems like the sub is kind of pulling in instead of pushing out. And yes everything is wired correctly and the phase on the amp is correct as well. I am stumped.. also if I'm looking for more spl, would 2 aq1200d's be louder than the arc's? I could sell the arc's used for well over the amount of 2 new aq1200d's. I'm just going for spl in this build. And the subs are in a 4 cu ft ported box tuned right around 30 hz in the hatch of a 350z. Thanks for the help!

Audio Build

Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door

Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs

Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith

Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2)

Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4

Mids/Highs: Skar components

Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31

Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/


Perfomance Build

2003 Nissan 350z

Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU

Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations

Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels
466rwhp


Bike

2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14

Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5

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if one is pushing instead of pulling there is a polarity issue somewhere. Are the subs sharing the same space ? May not be a good idea to run the subs on different powered amps.

Try running on one amp and see if you still have the push/pull and bottoming issue.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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try switching the subs and amps, so take one sub and connect it to the other amp and see if the same sub still does it or if the other sub now bottoms out. then you will know for sure if its the sub or the amp

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Ok, I will definitely try switching them out. I will go down to the garage and do that real quick. But also, does anyone know if I can bridge the ks1200 and the 1000? They both put out 1000rms at one ohm... And I would be bridging them to one ohm. It's just the ks1200 does 1200 watts at 2 ohms which is what they're currently running.

Audio Build

Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door

Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs

Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith

Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2)

Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4

Mids/Highs: Skar components

Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31

Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/


Perfomance Build

2003 Nissan 350z

Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU

Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations

Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels
466rwhp


Bike

2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14

Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5

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Share on other sites

Shard airspace? If so, the amps have to be gain matched. If you can with these different models, idk. Their output scaling may be too far off.

Clovis Custom Audio 559-392-3600

96 Silverado Single Cab

2-DD9515's Cut-through

1-DDSE Amp

Stock electrical and a couple small stingers, LOL

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ya it's shared airspace. So you think the problem is the two different amps? In that case, i don't know what to do. Arc actually kind of screwed me by giving me the new model... now I have to buy another to match. -___-

Audio Build

Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door

Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs

Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith

Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2)

Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4

Mids/Highs: Skar components

Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31

Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/


Perfomance Build

2003 Nissan 350z

Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU

Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations

Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels
466rwhp


Bike

2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14

Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After trying the switching woofers idea posted and confirming that the problem follows the amp, I'd say your best bet is to get another of one or the other.

By SPL, do you mean competing or just groundpounding? With either of those amps properly paired, you make enough to really work those woofers. Other option is sell both and by a single 2-3k watt amp. New KS2500 would do ;(

Clovis Custom Audio 559-392-3600

96 Silverado Single Cab

2-DD9515's Cut-through

1-DDSE Amp

Stock electrical and a couple small stingers, LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually haven't tried the switching woofers idea yet... I need to finish my coffee and quit being lazy and go try it out.. lol. But I will run down to the garage real quick and try it out. I talked to my buddy that's a dealer and he said I will probably need to swap the 1000 for a 1200. but the thing is, I can buy 2 of the aq1200d for less than 1 ks1200. So I might just sell both arc amps and buy the aq's. But I will keep you updated with the woofer swap.

Audio Build

Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door

Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs

Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith

Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2)

Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4

Mids/Highs: Skar components

Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31

Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/


Perfomance Build

2003 Nissan 350z

Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU

Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations

Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels
466rwhp


Bike

2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14

Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5

Link to comment
Share on other sites

call Arc, explain the situation, that the amp that was returned was part of a bridged set. They may either swap you 1000 up to 1200 or the 1200 back down to a 1000, or they may do nothing. I would still try because the fault of the original unit is what seems to have put you in this situation.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Link to comment
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how did everything go .i think you should try for shits and giggles to run the subs off one amp and see if it still happens if so theres another issue if not awesome and get a pair of strapable amps or one big one

90 honda civic lx 4 door

sony cd head unit

mmats mp5 eq/crossover/line driver

35 farad hybred cap

ppi sedona 430ix on mids/highs

hifonics brutus brz1700.1d @2 ohm 1200w rms

front/jl audio evo 6.5 components

rear/kove audio 2 way 5.25

subs/pioneer premier tsw3002spl 12x2 1000wrms ea 3000w peak

and a hi amp alt 160a

http://www.stevemead...0s-honda-civic/

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