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Well I may be too busy to get much work done but I pinned up the pieces I cut last night. For the most part the bottom and back pieces are all cut out.

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The pieces are taped together so they don't have such an easy chance to fall. I will be cutting out the marked spots on the board so it matches the rear deck. I have an Idea for it but not entirely sure how far I'm planning on taking it. I'm still playing with ideas for the part and the placement of the rings as well as the acrylic pieces. I have to be careful on the sides and the back as well as the bottom and top since I will be fiberglassing both the inside and outside of the box so the outside of the box needs to be a bit small while the inside a bit bigger than I want it.

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I hope to at least have the board cut out by tomorrow and maybe glass a little on Tuesday. End of semester means a lot of work but Im not glassing much, just a few strips so I can actually take it out of the car in 1 piece.

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OK well I got some free time on Thursday just to get a little work in but I didn't get a chance to post anything.

I dont have a router and my dremels cutting tool wasnt working as good as it has in the past.

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I got forced sawing with this....I need a jig saw.

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After a quick workout I was able to get the general shape.

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Time to sand it down to my lines.

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I had 2 lines, the secondary line is about how thick on the outside of fiberglass I will have. Should be about 2layers thick with 2.0 matt.

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It needs more work but if you didnt get the idea before you can see it now.

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Trimmed down some more but still not perfect. The plan is to get it to the perfect hieght and then shave it more for the fiberglass layer. I am thinking about glassing the rear deck, if not just for the look of being painted and not carpet. I'm trying to get ideas for the rear deck. Most likely I'll leave it alone though.

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I'm going to try to finish this piece today and hit up my friend to do a small 1/4" cut on the back wall piece for the adjustment for fiberglass on the bottom layer. A table saw makes cuts a lot easier. Then I will try to fiberglass the boards together so that I can take the bottom and back pieces out of my car all in 1 piece to start on the side pieces.

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How are you attaching it to the car?

I'm connecting it to the center beam using rubber washers and some large bolts (I don't have the best details for this yet and might use the seat belt fastener positions instead to keep it down since they are rated for alot higher stresses the way they are set up). Also, going to attach it to the rear deck as well using bolts and rubber washers. Possibly 4 bolts along the back, but I need to get the bolt setup where the back is pre fastened because there is no way to hold the back side of the bolt with the amp racks in and they have to go in first. [Kinda like the bolt setup for the Shaker 1000 system in the back, I can take a picture of it later if needed]

My box is designed to be like a bucket seat so it wont slide side to side and based upon my experience from my last box, with the angle it is on, it doesn't move forward even under heavy braking since the center of mass is still low. I am thinking about a front brace as well but if I do that, then I will fiberglass the brace in and bolt that to the back seat. I do not like drilling into a fiberglass box. :D

I plan on using a rubber epoxy as well with all rubber washers to try to seal off any chance for an air leak.

BTW I'm loving the ways yours is coming out, 2 18"S is sick. If I didn't have the Shaker doors I would probably do something like your doors, I'm sure they scream.

EDIT: Also, the semi-wall is because I am going to use a rubber sealer around the edges on the back of the box to try to stop air from being able to go into the trunk. The trunk is not 100% sealed off but I reduced it by about 80%-90% from what it was so I'm hoping that is enough to keep most of the air out of my trunk.

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Got in some more sanding today, its almost set just like I want it.

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I sanded it to my new lines to match the curves better and get the proper height.

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It's close but it's not perfect.

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I basically only have enough fiberglass to get the "mold" of the box set. I think I'm going to buy 3/4 oz Matt unless it's suggest against this and layer it. 2.0 matter is hard to work with on curves. Again this is my first time using fiberglass.

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Now it's right where I want it. But since there will be about rougly 1/4" thick of fiberglass on top, I'm going to need to reduce it all by 1/4".

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My new lines. It's not 1/4" but it should be 3-4 layers worth of 3/4oz matt. I'm not sure what the regular thickness is of a fiberglass box is, but I'd rather it too strong verse too weak.

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Sanded down the the lines, no test fit needed as it wouldnt match up with it now, but should after fiberglassing.

Now all I have to do is cut roughly 1/4" off the back piece since the bottom will be raised by 1/4" and I want it to follow the same shape I have it set at now. I would have done this but I'm going to be lazy and wait on the ability to use a table saw, if I can't get my hands on it tomorrow then I will just remove 1/4" the hard way. I'd rather not because of tired of this slow sanding process.

I cut out the fiberglass sheets I need to turn the multiple trunk pieces into 1 piece for removal, so I will try to add that tomorrow after I remove 1/4" from the back piece. Once I pull it out I can get the sides marked and then I'll work on a 3D model of my box. I'm not entirely sure on the design on the front of the box yet until I calculate the area I have with my current design.

I have a question for anyone who is good with WinISD Pro. It's a very simple question but I would like to confirm something.

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OK so I didn't get the chance to use my friends table saw today but I didn't want to wait, yet I didn't want to mess up using my circular saw. So....

Here's the line I needed to cut to

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This felt like the half way point it takes so long but it was only about 1/3 of the way

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It basically took 45mins to cut the bottom to that line. I really wish I had a table saw. I'd get so much more done.

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Placing the fiberglass to the board where needed. In case anyone wondered how it magically stuck up there, I left the adhesive spray in the picture. :)

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To all you guys who make walls in cars and fiberglass your box....Major props from me. This was killing my back like crazy. I hope it is strong enough to allow me to take the box out as 1 piece by myself.

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I'm not sure if this is a bad idea, but I found a useful trick with fiberglassing, if you add a little less hardener than you should. It will give you more time to work with the resin(obvious I know) but I use about half of what is needed so once I am happy I have a very very small 0.25-0.5oz spray bottle that has hardener in it so that I can mist the parts with the hardener and it has worked for me in the past with no problems. It takes time for resin to soak through 2.0 matt so it can be useful.

I did some more tuning in WinISD Pro, I'm not sure how reliable it is but it is telling me I have the ability to hit 151db at the way I am attempting to set it up. I added the static gain and the lowpass filter and the parametric EQ.

I want to confirm with someone that the port volume is included in the box volume.

I'll try to add some box specs soon, I still don't know my exact area I have to play with so I don't know how long my port will be yet but I'm pretty sure I have more than enough room.

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Just messing around in Pro E. I didn't add the port because I did this in 30mins and the port alone would have taken that long the way I built this. This is to show my general Idea.

Let me know what you guys think. (The green section will be like my first box and say Monster Energy)

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I don't believe WinISD's SPL level one bit.

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I still have a question if WinISD includes the port at all in the volume or if you have to make some calculations. I assume the port volume is separate from the box volume.

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