Subs problems again...

[Sergeant_Skyrim]

I have more info this time too! I've got two Kicker 12 inch Comps on 200 watts in roughly a 4 cu ft box (net) tuned to about 31Hz. I usually bump windows down because my AC isn't so great and I like the breeze anyways.

This past week however, I had to close my windows (don't remember the reason, rain probably) and then when I went to play Rack City when it hit the low note with the car being sealed my subs started messing up again. It sounds like they're cutting in and out.

I really don't know what it could be, and I know that I did play below tuning, but I don't think that they're blown because if I blew the VC's then wouldn't it not play at all? When it's cutting in and out it plays fine when it cuts back in but sounds like shit when it cuts out.

So subs are still getting a signal from the amp and the headunit. I think I'm going to try running some new wiring, it's all been in there for the past 6 or 7 years so I don't know if that could be the problem or what. Just thought I'd post this up to see if anybody has had the same problem before or if anybody might know what it is. Thanks!

[Sergeant_Skyrim]

Forgot to add that this has happened in the past, when I was playing Psyph Morrison's Wet Dolphin with the car being nearly entirely sealed up (front windows down just a crack). And only when the low note hit too. But then the problem went away after a few days and the subs have been playing fine since. Also not the amp, opened it up and it looks just as good as it did when I got it brand new 6 or 7 years ago

[HatersGonnaHate]

What size power and ground wires do you have going to the amp? Voltage of the battery? Voltage drop? Have you taken the subs out and checked the resistance on the coils to make sure they're still reading what they're supposed to be?

[Sergeant_Skyrim]

What size power and ground wires do you have going to the amp? Voltage of the battery? Voltage drop? Have you taken the subs out and checked the resistance on the coils to make sure they're still reading what they're supposed to be?

10gauge between battery/amp. Don't know voltage or voltage drop, how would I go about checking that? Would I need a voltmeter or something like that? (Still learning the ropes of electrical) And how would I check the resistance on the coils? I've had these Kicker Comp 12s for only the past year and a half or so, upgraded to them from the 2 MTX 100 watt RMS subs that came as part of a full enclosure.

I know I don't have the best equipment/wiring at the moment, but I was planning on running 1/0 whenever I upgraded probably this summer. So that's why I have been hesitant on buying anything new this past month or so that I've been learning more, just saving up to do it all at once when I have enough. And I don't think the connection on the amp that goes out to the battery is big enough to accept 1/0, so that's why I haven't done it yet.

Just let me know if you need anymore info, I'll try supplying as much as I can but it'll be at least a few weeks before I can go back home to test anything out

[jrchevy87]

check your tinsel leads they may be loos or partially broken, just get a dmm and set it to ohms then put the pos lead into the pos terminal and same for the neg then note the reading then move the tinsel leads around with your finger and if you notice a big change in resistance or an open circuit then theres your problem

[HatersGonnaHate]

Power wires are too small for starters..... For a lower power amp, personally I'd use nothing smaller than 8 gauge, but 4 or 0 gauge are the best choice IMO.

And yes, a volt meter is the best way to check voltage.

Check resting voltage of the battery with the car off, then start the car and check the voltage at the battery again and it should be higher than the resting voltage.

To check voltage drop without an in car volt gauge (like a stinger LED volt gauge) you'd just turn the system on to your normal listening level and put your voltmeter on the battery or the power/ground of the amp and watch the fluctuation in voltage.

To check the resistance in the coils, you need a voltmeter with an ohm meter function on it (You can get a cheap-o one from home depot and it will do the trick, just a basic volt/ohm meter)..... Anyways, turn the meter to the ohm setting, disconnect the wires from the speaker terminals on each sub, and put the leads on the positive and negative terminal of the sub. If it's a 4 ohm sub, each side should read around 4 ohms...... a 2 ohm sub should be a round 2 ohms... Sometimes it will read .1 or .2 higher, and usually that's alright.

But I'm just thinking that it's a power/ground wire issue. Not enough current getting to the amp.