Any better idea, or technique?

[Kyblack76]

Had a small question for anyone out there...Started putting in the set. And was wondering if what i did was acceptable, and if theres a better way. I made the template with the cut out sheet the set came with, and posistioned it on the panel, and had to clock it a few different ways to utilize all mounting hardware, due to some slight hills, valleys, channels and some stock holes in the panel. I tried using a block and hammer to work the metal flat, which worked pretty good. The differances are very slight, and minimal. (but drove me bat shit) I thought to hell with it and grabbed a sheet of 1/16" polyurethene. And used it to "make up" the highs and valleys around the driver.

Can someone let me know,Is there any issue with this? Is it a big deal? Or a good idea? And, id like to learn, so if someone has a better idea, i'd love to hear it. Especially before i do the passenger side door. Just to try it.

I tried...

and then trimmed it a bit

I ran 2 new 12g wires, one for the mid, and one for the tweet,hoping to run active, didnt get time for the tweet, for fun, ive had the cars schematic, and found the 2 outputs on the stock turd amp, and tapped into em, to check if shes rolling, and it is...pretty stoked, and i heard NO rattles, but, no amp yet.....

Finishing the rest and then throwing a 4 channel, and my 3sixty.2 is the plan, hoping by weeks end.

Would love any advice on the subject.....as always, appreciate any help....

Kyle

[Kevin M]

I would use a 1/4" piece of mdf as a baffle (3/4" if you have the clearance) and cover the outer part with your favorite deadener. That will give you a stronger point of contact. You could also use some non hardening modeling clay to seal the baffle if you are feeling adventurous. lol A piece of closed cell foam or deflex pad (Blackhole 5) behind the speaker will work wonders too.

[Skullz]

Absolutely use mdf between the speaker and the door skin and also use some deadener between the mdf and the door skin as a decoupler to reduce vibrations being transferred.

EDIT: Trim as much of the door skin as you can so you have full access through the hole with no obstructions reflecting the sound waves.

[Kyblack76]

excellent, thanks for some ideas... again, the peaks and valleys were probably nothing big, but it just bugged the hell out of me.....The material i used (and i think i called it the wrong name, my bad) is very durable but giving, mallable, rubber. Just lik the speaker basket, using wood, wouldnt soak up the peaks and valleys would it?... the clay is a thought.... maybe im on the right track... much appreciated... i just like seeing every body's different ways of doing shit.... cheers...

KLB

Edit = i just went and cut a wooden baffle, I think i see what your getting at,.. ill use the MDF baffle, and if need be, fill in that tomorrow on the passenger side...... awesome, and thanks all....

[Kyblack76]

Removed both mids today, and for kicks, i used some 1/4" lexan, made the baffle, why lexan?, something different, and i had some,, thoughts or opinions?

To secure the for the baffle, i used some "pan head" fasteners, and a step down bit.

It made the pan heads sit flush on the baffle, then drilled through the baffle,and panel, and put a washer and nut on the back. And they arent going anywhere.....Then, used the provided SHCS sheet metal screws to tie the woofer to the baffle, and through the pannel, and it fit tight as hell... im much, much more pleased.

RF 3sixty.2 DSP install, along with my 4 channel tommorow, im hoping, and if all goes well,...