Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Had this crazy idea, instead of doing a ZCON in a ported box off of a BRZ1700.1D or 2100.1D, maybe I could do a T-Line for an XCON off of the 1700.1D. I will have the electrical to support it, still waiting on my XP3000 to come in the mail as well as ordering some wire for Big 3 in 1/0 soon. Just looking for some opinions on if the 10" XCON in a t-line box sounds like a good idea or not. I read through the T-Line tutorial thread a few times in the past day or two to get a feel for it, and I'm pretty sure that I'll have the room in my trunk for everything. Max dimensions are 14.5Hx34Wx23D, but I don't think I'll be needing that much room. I calculated the internal volume I'll need and it came out to just under 3 cubic feet (not including wood or any other displacements). So on to what I calculated...I took the Sd of the 10" from SSA's website and it was 310cm^2. Divided this by 2.54^2 to convert to square inches and then multiplied by the (1130/Fs) or 1130/33.2. This gave me just about 8.5 feet long multiplied by the surface area of the cone which was just under 50 in^2. Converted 8.5ft to inches and got 102, multiplied by 50 and then divided by 1728 to convert to cubic feet. That's where I got the just under 3 cubic feet of internal volume. Now to the design. I was thinking of inverting it and having the ass stick out towards the cabin on the passenger side. I'm also wanting the port to come out into the cabin, but on the driver's side. So 11.5H meaning 10"H inside the box, and 5"D in order to preserve the 50 square inches of cone area. This would travel 8.5 feet and wind around to where the port would open up on the driver's side. I've tried sketching up my idea in paint, so here's a link to the picture hopefully: http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/557629_3396453422824_1014379508_33177994_231937203_n.jpg Does this look good? Any opinions on if I should just do this or any reasons why I shouldn't? The tutorial also said that a QTS under .4 and a QMS under 7 are optimal for a T-Line, both of which this woofer has. I'd appreciate some feedback. Cheers! Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 So yeah, forgot to also include that the box I drew up would be 11.5Hx34Wx18D. With these dimensions, I'm only able to get the tunnel to 97.5 inches long while the formula calls for 102 inches. I could try squeezing another 1.5 into the width to match up perfectly, but I need to make sure the XP3000 will still fit into the back with this. My question about this is, would the 4.5 inch difference in length be that noticeable? The only thing I think that it'd change is the tuning and I'm guessing it'd only be by 1 or 2 Hz at most Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 t-lines are effecient as hell, but don't give very much mechanical control over the sub. I'd advise against this just because of how much power you are running. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 t-lines are effecient as hell, but don't give very much mechanical control over the sub. I'd advise against this just because of how much power you are running. If I were to run something like a 1200.1D instead would that make much of a difference? I haven't really seen many T-Line builds at all, but from what I read in that tutorial thread they sound like they'd get pretty loud at many different frequencies. Would still like a few more opinions, and darn you for raining on my parade! Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 would you free air the sub on 1200 watts? would advise against it. Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 would you free air the sub on 1200 watts? would advise against it. Didn't know it'd be the same thing as free airing it, I thought there'd still be some sort of pressure that would keep it from free airing. Guess I've still got a bit to learn...and I was so excited about this =( Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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