95Burbancalldsnow Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Thank you mbdblue I was making a dumb mistake, and rev I really do apologize the more I read that the rider I sound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh G. Rection Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 your port area is WAY too small. you have a 3x14 port, which is 42in^2 of port area. this comes to 4.45in^2 of port area per ft^3 of internal volume. you want to be in the range of 12-14in^2 of port per ft^3 of internal volume. Quote Owner of BigAss Ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95Burbancalldsnow Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Like I said first box build lol I was obviously in the completely wrong direction :/ thank you all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95Burbancalldsnow Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 so is that 12-14^2 figure based upon net or gross volume of he box? I am assuming net because it takes into account the displacement of the woofer and port itself, but please correct me if I am wrong. Is that 12-14^2 just a general rule for all ported boxes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michigancapri92 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Yes general rule for the average box Quote Teamcapri.comThe TeamCapri 1992 Mercury Capri XR22012 FORD EDGE SQ BUILDOld build logMy FeedBack1992 Mercury capri XR2 Hyper LED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95Burbancalldsnow Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 thanks michigancapri92, ok so I reworked the box design based on the information ive recieved here let me know if this seems better to you guys or if I should just give up and try and have some one else design my box (which I dont really want to do I want to learn this stuff for myself), thank you all for your knowledge and time, I know some people take these forums and the people and information they can provide for granted but I really do appreciate the help and knowledge you guys(gals?) can provide me. Here is my re-done design... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 here's one 1 draw up for a mate with some modifications to suit you measurements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95Burbancalldsnow Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Thank you john, that would have a port volume of ruffly 18^2 per cu.ft of box volume thats only 4 over compared to my original design which was 7^2 under, is going over on port volume better then going under? or should i really try and keep it as close to 12=14^2 as possible? not trying to nit pick I appreciate you doing that for me john I just know im only going to have the money right now to do this once and want to make sure I get as close to "perfect" as possible for a first shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 first idd work out your max dimensions then sub up,back or fwd, port up,back of fwd do you want slot or aero port? port standing up, or lying down? How do you want to tune them, (and if low do you have good surround to components a low tune) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95Burbancalldsnow Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 max width im willing to give up is 44 max depth is 28 leaving about 4-5 inches between box port and rear doors and max height im willing to go is 22 inches but my windows on the back doors of my suburban are at roughly 18.5 inches and i heave heard you want to try and keep them below the window line dont know how true that is though, im trying mainly for "jaw dropping bass" then I am SQ (i know 1500 watts for jaw dropping is a joke compared to some of the system on this forum lol) so thats why I was trying to tune around 32hz, if my subs over power my mid ranges for now then im ok with that it just gives me an excuse to buy better speakers and another or multiple amps lol. Again I have read and I dont know how true it is that subs up port back is the way to go in suburbans and tahoes so I thought I would run it like that. I was planning on running a slot port design hence why my port was much longer then tall is I was going to do a common chamber box subs up and the slot port along the bottom of the box facing the rear doors, but I do like your box/port design much better then my Idea with the port on the bottom seems like that seems like yours would transfer sound better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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