gally Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) So you're saying him running 1500 watts with stock battery, with a 130 amps alt.. All he needs is another battery? or upgrade stock battery too? ok i am gonna answer like i did to my upgrades....BIG 3, upgraded the stock battery.....and a 100Amp alternator(StoCK alternator) i am currently running the DD M2 with minimal voltage drop....at full power my voltage drops at max to 14.0V simple as that Edited April 9, 2012 by gally Quote 2010 Chevrolet Cruze Radio --- pioneer mvh-200vbt Front/back --- alpine type s 6.5" Sub Control --- Pac LC1 Sub Amp --- GZPA 1.4K Sub --- GZNW 15XSPL D1 Battery - GZBP 12.2500X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
209er Posted April 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 i was holding my peddle a while, And i was paying loud and my subs seemed to hit harder so im guessing my alt is all right.Okay im going to get a XS batt. I just want to get my volt drop out of the 11 area. I dont really play my system with out running my car. Quote <p>Pioneer AVIC 6000 NEX, JBL 660c Components - FI SP415- Arc audio xdi2000.1- Xs Power- 0 gauge, Big 3 Upgrade Dc Power xp270 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
209er Posted April 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 So should i get a h/o first I cant get both as of now. What would be more important to get less of a voltage drop. I drop down to around 11.5 when i turn it up. an alt would be the better item to get. Hey Damn i was hoping i didnt have to Okay i seen this alt by Powerbastard 220amp But i feel its to low of a price compared to DC 180 alt. Im wondering if it would last. Quote <p>Pioneer AVIC 6000 NEX, JBL 660c Components - FI SP415- Arc audio xdi2000.1- Xs Power- 0 gauge, Big 3 Upgrade Dc Power xp270 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiean123 Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) Hmmm, so one extra battery in the back with ~40 amp hours is perfect?(660 cranking amps) ~1300 watts? (for a 1500 watt system) Edited April 9, 2012 by Kiean123 Quote wooohoo! -Acura RL 2005. Blue. -Stinger Expert Roadkill..Trunk only -(2) Skar VVX-12's D4 coils -Dual slot ported to the left custom box tuned @ 32hz -Audioque 1200D amplifier A tribe called quest... ftw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gally Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 i was holding my peddle a while, And i was paying loud and my subs seemed to hit harder so im guessing my alt is all right.Okay im going to get a XS batt. I just want to get my volt drop out of the 11 area. I dont really play my system with out running my car. just do the BIG 3 upgrade and replace the stock battery with the biggest XS you can get....and you will be just fine.... ad far for the alternators.....save the money and buy a good one....powerbastards alternators are good but not THAT good....it will die eventually....like it did to me.. Quote 2010 Chevrolet Cruze Radio --- pioneer mvh-200vbt Front/back --- alpine type s 6.5" Sub Control --- Pac LC1 Sub Amp --- GZPA 1.4K Sub --- GZNW 15XSPL D1 Battery - GZBP 12.2500X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt14 Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 When you get a alt, go with DC, Mechman or singer. Sometimes, its best to buy for the customer service and warrenty then it is to save a couple of bucks and some potential headaches. I personally have only used DC and so far so good. Previously, I ran a Rockford 5 channel that put out around 1400 total rms and only had the stock 130amp alt and a XS3400 and voltage was good, never saw below like 13.5v from what i remember. Quote 2006 GMC YukonPioneer HU SHCA ran throughout Crescendo BC3500 One 18 AA Mayhem in a 4th order ZED Levithian 6 channel Rainbow Dual 6.5 comps ran Activehttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155628-matt14s-yukon-mayhem-in-a-4th-ordernew-amps-and-bats/page-3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
209er Posted April 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 And i for got when I swaped my engine out. I also for got to do the Big 3 again. But that my batt. My connection is not really on that good. Quote <p>Pioneer AVIC 6000 NEX, JBL 660c Components - FI SP415- Arc audio xdi2000.1- Xs Power- 0 gauge, Big 3 Upgrade Dc Power xp270 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 So should i get a h/o first I cant get both as of now. What would be more important to get less of a voltage drop. I drop down to around 11.5 when i turn it up. an alt would be the better item to get. Hey Damn i was hoping i didnt have to Okay i seen this alt by Powerbastard 220amp But i feel its to low of a price compared to DC 180 alt. Im wondering if it would last. garbage. go with DC power, mechman, or singer. i personally put them in that order. if you were to get a 220 amp alt, i would bet you wont see any voltage drop at speed. just a little at idle, probably a 1v drop at worst. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) And i for got when I swaped my engine out. I also for got to do the Big 3 again. But that my batt. My connection is not really on that good. whats holding that ring terminal on the 0awg? i dont see any kind of bolt there. on the battery. Edited April 9, 2012 by skittlesRgood Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) And i for got when I swaped my engine out. I also for got to do the Big 3 again. But that my batt. My connection is not really on that good. whats holding that ring terminal on the 0awg? i dont see any kind of bolt there. on the battery. i noticed that too. it seems to be just wedged in there edit: you can see the lug hole peeking out too Edited April 9, 2012 by Kranny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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