Sedan box design

[Lost Legacy]

So have just bought a new car and it is a sedan. All previous builds have delt with single air space (wagons and hatch backs). Was wondering if there is a "best way" to set up the subs.

Like i have seen people facing subs towards front of car with port forward also.

However they always were using decent power on the system.

Would subs and port back work better in my situation or what?

Just like to know the best way to go about it before i start designing and building. Subs will see 600WRMS each by the way(two 12s).

[Omega5002]

If you can/want to seal the box off from the trunk, that's the best to go to get best sound quality,gain a few db's, and have less trunk rattle. Only disadvantage is that you can't take out your box whenever you want.

If you can't/don't want to seal the box off from the trunk, face it rear, though it won't sound as good as forward/sealed, and you get more trunk rattle if you didn't deaden you new car yet.

[HotRodHam]

why do people always forget to post what kinda vehicle when they are asking these questions "a sedan" doesnt cut it lol

but what the guy above me said is a pretty legit answer

[john253a]

not seal off

sub back/port back

or

sub back/port side

if sealed fwd/fwd

or up/up through rear shelf

[Omega5002]

Well, at least he posted a type of vehicle, like a "sedan", because that opens up more options on placement, cause when I think of sedans, I think of 4 doors, and a trunk. Some people here ask these types of questions without saying what type of vehicle they drive, which makes people have to guess.

[Joe X]

Every car is dofferent and sometimes comes down to testing most frequent configurations are port/subs forward (sealed off) or backwards, bot the design itself of the box the amp and the electrical will also have a role in the final performance.. why not post all the specifics max dims, electrical subs/ams(s) models, electrical, car model etc..

[Lost Legacy]

Sorry for not being specific on what everything was. I didn't have measurements for the trunk on me so didn't post those up. Space however isn't a problem as the boot is massive, and using only a small chunk of it i can get 1.5cuft for each sub.

Car is a 99' Honda Accord SirT.

Electrical is stock at the moment as the car is only 2weeks old for me, and i'm sorting out all the mechanical side of things at the moment. But when i have finished with that side of things then i'll move on to electrical.

That will consist of:

150A (approx) alternator

Stock battery up front.

Optima blue top in the rear

1/0awg runs to the back

Amps are subjected to change as the build goes on but power will start and most likely stay around 2000WRMS in total (subs and speakers).

Will tune to approx 33Hz on the box with a slot port.

Now back to the matter of the box itself.

From what omega said; i'd prefer to sub and port forward so as to eliminate some of the trunk rattle. Can aim port through fold down arm rest in back seat if thats going to help also. I won't be able to "fully" seal of the box from the tunk but i can do it so it's pretty damn close to being sealed off.

*hope thats enough information to work with*

[Joe X]

Some 12s.. DC Audio subs will work well in that 1.5 cubes.

[Lost Legacy]

Fusion PP 12s to be specific then...

Would love to get DC but it would cost me an absolute shit tonne to bring them over to NZ i'm sure