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Well I have an '89 civic hatchback with two Rockford T1's wired at 1ohm powered by their own Audiopipe ap15001d's(1500 watt mono).

-I stripped the paint and ran a 0 gauge ground from the chassis to my capacitor, then one 4 gauge ground from the capacitor to each amplifier.

-I ran a 0 gauge power wire directly from my under hood optima to my capacitor, then one 4 gauge power from the capacitor to each amplifier.

-I ran a 0 gauge power wire from my optima to my (new as of today) stock replacement 60amp alternator.

-I ran a 0 gauge ground wire from my optima to the chassis, and using the same ground point from the chassis to the transmission.

Finally after all of this I see 14+ volts on my voltmeter that's built into the capacitor. The voltage drops down about a volt with my headlights on and about another volt with both amplifiers powered on. Most songs it says in the 12 volt range but there's a few where it dips deep into the 10's and my lights dim very badly.

I'm considering running a full length ground directly to the battery from the capacitor or should I run it to the alternator mounting bolt? Will this make a noticeable difference?

I can upgrade to a direct bolt in 75amp alt for basically free, would this be worth wasting my time or should I spring for the HO right away instead?

My gains are set by ear currently but they are very conservative at about 1/8th turn of the full scale. Bass boost is completely off and low pass is around 50hz set with a dmm.

I do plan on adding a second optima in the rear but that won't be for a few weeks yet before I can afford it.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and help. I appreciate it.

Comparassion of my old cheap 4 gauge compared to my new knukoncepts 0 gauge.

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Car at idle with no lights on.

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Car at idle with lights on.

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Car at idle with lights on and both amplifiers powered but radio at 0.

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Random picture of the current layout. Slightly <5cuft @35hz. It's the first box I've built in 5+ years.

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Optima Redtop Under Hood

Vmax CT800 Outback

Big6?(lol) 0/1 KnuKoncepts

2x 15" RF T1's in 7.7cuft @32hz

Audiopipe aqx3500.1d

Pioneer DEH-5000UB

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You simply have a weak alt.

1)Upgrade to the 75A as fast as possible, then start saving for a H/O

2)Run a dedicated ground from the alt mounting bracket to (-) on the battery to (-) on the cap to (-) on the amps.

3)Consider trashing the cap.

-Drew

detail.gifI am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. detail.gif

uhoh_45 said:
dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
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You simply have a weak alt.

1)Upgrade to the 75A as fast as possible, then start saving for a H/O

2)Run a dedicated ground from the alt mounting bracket to (-) on the battery to (-) on the cap to (-) on the amps.

3)Consider trashing the cap.

-Drew

I realize the cap isn't helping me much but I keep it for two main reasons, it shows instant voltage and it's an easy distribution point currently. Once I stabilize the voltage I will spend the time/money on actual distribution blocks and trash the cap. Thanks for the advice.

Optima Redtop Under Hood

Vmax CT800 Outback

Big6?(lol) 0/1 KnuKoncepts

2x 15" RF T1's in 7.7cuft @32hz

Audiopipe aqx3500.1d

Pioneer DEH-5000UB

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get rid of your cap and get a battery

Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born.

My penis is bigger than your penis

I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle.

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my bad didnt read the whole thing

Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born.

My penis is bigger than your penis

I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle.

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