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Posted

If you have the funding available get the alt rewound, It would be better to have a h/o but if your not gonna be able to do that for a while they do this. Also run a second battery in the cargo area, in place of the cap. This will give you the benefits of a distribution block and better electrical for your amps.

Posted

Two shops locally won't wind my alt, I've already inquired. I'll just save for the upgrade.

I did just pop a 100amp ANL underhood fuse though so I'm curious as what to replace it with. By my uneducated calculations it would be a 300amp fuse?

Optima Redtop Under Hood

Vmax CT800 Outback

Big6?(lol) 0/1 KnuKoncepts

2x 15" RF T1's in 7.7cuft @32hz

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Pioneer DEH-5000UB

Posted

I realize the cap isn't helping me much but I keep it for two main reasons, it shows instant voltage and it's an easy distribution point currently. Once I stabilize the voltage I will spend the time/money on actual distribution blocks and trash the cap. Thanks for the advice.

at this point the cap is literally just a power drainer. sell it for $40 and use the money to get a $20 volt meter to install in your line of sight on the dash and a $20 distro block.

Posted

You simply have a weak alt.

1)Upgrade to the 75A as fast as possible, then start saving for a H/O

2)Run a dedicated ground from the alt mounting bracket to (-) on the battery to (-) on the cap to (-) on the amps.

3)Consider trashing the cap.

-Drew

what do you mean when you say an H/O?

wooohoo!

-Acura RL 2005. Blue.

-Stinger Expert Roadkill..Trunk only

-(2) Skar VVX-12's D4 coils

-Dual slot ported to the left custom box tuned @ 32hz

-Audioque 1200D amplifier

A tribe called quest... ftw

Posted

Second battery > distribution block?

I realize the cap isn't helping me much but I keep it for two main reasons, it shows instant voltage and it's an easy distribution point currently. Once I stabilize the voltage I will spend the time/money on actual distribution blocks and trash the cap. Thanks for the advice.

at this point the cap is literally just a power drainer. sell it for $40 and use the money to get a $20 volt meter to install in your line of sight on the dash and a $20 distro block.

Optima Redtop Under Hood

Vmax CT800 Outback

Big6?(lol) 0/1 KnuKoncepts

2x 15" RF T1's in 7.7cuft @32hz

Audiopipe aqx3500.1d

Pioneer DEH-5000UB

Posted

thanks kranny :)

wooohoo!

-Acura RL 2005. Blue.

-Stinger Expert Roadkill..Trunk only

-(2) Skar VVX-12's D4 coils

-Dual slot ported to the left custom box tuned @ 32hz

-Audioque 1200D amplifier

A tribe called quest... ftw

Posted

Haven't got any feedback on the fuse size yet. I have a spare 250amp fuse I'm just going to use that for now I suppose and I will probably run my full length ground tomorrow morning before work.

Optima Redtop Under Hood

Vmax CT800 Outback

Big6?(lol) 0/1 KnuKoncepts

2x 15" RF T1's in 7.7cuft @32hz

Audiopipe aqx3500.1d

Pioneer DEH-5000UB

Posted

How many amps are both amplifiers pulling?

That's the size your front fuse should be.

You can use your battery as a dist block I believe. And then you have better voltage and still a dist block.

Double win

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And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.

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Posted

I don't understand how to figure the amperage both amps pull unless it's 1500watts = 150amps then multiples by dos equals 300amps. I think I'll be okay with 250amps for now until I fix the voltage drop. I'm looking for another optima actively.

Optima Redtop Under Hood

Vmax CT800 Outback

Big6?(lol) 0/1 KnuKoncepts

2x 15" RF T1's in 7.7cuft @32hz

Audiopipe aqx3500.1d

Pioneer DEH-5000UB

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