Brandon_4078 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 The battery iso is not a terrible idea, maybe unnecessary though batteries are not my strength. I guess my question for you is how many watts are you gonna be putting out realistically? The fuse will depend on that... isolators are a terrible thing to install in your system. unless you plan on going to a fancy car show where you're going to play music for hours on end with your car off, then you dont need one. isolators cut off your battery from getting charged by the alternator. thus draining the shit (and dropping the voltage like crazy) out of the battery. then once it drops down to like 11v or 10v or whatever, the isolator will switch the alt charge back on on the battery. alternators fucking hate charging dead batteries. they're made to keep them topped off. basically harming your alternator and shortening its life. and not to mention the voltage drop from the uncharged battery will harm the amp, making it produce more heat and less power than it can. The isolaters I have looked at allow charging but don't allow the battery to drain the other battery. Here's an example: http://www.newmarpow...ntegrators.html http://www.oreillyau...N0356&ppt=C0061 but again expensive and unnecessary...unless your bumpin' with the engine off. Thank you everyone for the replies and suggestions. So I'm thinking this is what I'm gonna end up doing. Bit three with a 250a fuse block all 1/0 gauge wire. Second batt: one run of 1/0gauge from starter batt(+) to trunk batt(+), then ground the 2nd batt in trunk. You could get away with a 150 amp fuse on 1700watts... but yea go with the 250 amp, it will give you extra room so you don't blow fuses on accident. Looks good to me! Quote "The only man who makes no mistakes is the man who never does anything" -Theodore Roosevelt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR2011bu Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 The battery iso is not a terrible idea, maybe unnecessary though batteries are not my strength. I guess my question for you is how many watts are you gonna be putting out realistically? The fuse will depend on that... isolators are a terrible thing to install in your system. unless you plan on going to a fancy car show where you're going to play music for hours on end with your car off, then you dont need one. isolators cut off your battery from getting charged by the alternator. thus draining the shit (and dropping the voltage like crazy) out of the battery. then once it drops down to like 11v or 10v or whatever, the isolator will switch the alt charge back on on the battery. alternators fucking hate charging dead batteries. they're made to keep them topped off. basically harming your alternator and shortening its life. and not to mention the voltage drop from the uncharged battery will harm the amp, making it produce more heat and less power than it can. The isolaters I have looked at allow charging but don't allow the battery to drain the other battery. Here's an example: http://www.newmarpow...ntegrators.html http://www.oreillyau...N0356&ppt=C0061 but again expensive and unnecessary...unless your bumpin' with the engine off. Thank you everyone for the replies and suggestions. So I'm thinking this is what I'm gonna end up doing. Bit three with a 250a fuse block all 1/0 gauge wire. Second batt: one run of 1/0gauge from starter batt(+) to trunk batt(+), then ground the 2nd batt in trunk. You could get away with a 150 amp fuse on 1700watts... but yea go with the 250 amp, it will give you extra room so you don't blow fuses on accident. Looks good to me! I'll be workin on this tomorrow have to pick up some 1/0 gauge terminals so i don't have a crazy amount of ring terminals from wires hanging on to battery. After that i'll probably look into ordering a HO Alt but for now i have to hold off as my car is not my number one priority. Haha eveything i do goes through the boss(wifey) first lol so i'm not sure that 4-$600 on a HO Alt will sound that pleasant, being that i have only had this car about a year.. so yeah And again thanks for all the replies im sure i might have figured this out but one thing is that i definitely would not have figured it out this fast haha Quote Under Construction 2011 Malibu 1LT 12k DDM Tuning HID's 55W Soundstream 6.5 components(front) Inffinitty Kappa 6x9's (rear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon_4078 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Maybe I'm lucky I don't have one of those "bosses" LOL Quote "The only man who makes no mistakes is the man who never does anything" -Theodore Roosevelt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getonerd Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 so i do park and pound sometimes so i need isolator right im thinking about an PAC-200 Quote 1996 Chevy Tahoe AKA My SQ Hoe Pioneer AVH-X2800BS Precision Power PC.18DS MB Quart NA540.6 Skar Audio RP-2000.1D 55-3210 - 8 Inch MCM AUDIO SELECT Rockville RXM64 Tymphany BC25SC06-04 Kenwood KFC-1795PS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 your car is running during park and pound isn't it? Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterJohnson Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 park and pound with ur car on! louder anyways Quote Scion tC SQ BuildiPad mini, lots of fabrication, daily drivenFord Explorer C Pillar Wall Build Just a cheap car to destroy with bass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon_4078 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 (edited) so i do park and pound sometimes so i need isolator right im thinking about an PAC-200 Only if your pound with your car off, if you have your car on you do not need an iso. Edit: That is more of a relay it looks like it switches to the highest voltage battery all the time, not a great thing. Correct me if I'm wrong. Edited April 29, 2012 by Brandon4078 Quote "The only man who makes no mistakes is the man who never does anything" -Theodore Roosevelt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Isolators are pretty pointless IMHO. Do the big 3 in 0 gauge, fuse the positive wire(s) next to each battery and call it a day. Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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