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How about hot glue. It will hold the two together and can be pealed off once the bottom is glassed. I use a soldering iron to loosen hot glue after I don't need it.

2003 Tahoe

dc 7.5k

dc level 5 15's (3)

MMats 341's

xs power batts

lots of sky high cable

dual alts(came off the sky-high gmc and don't know who made them)

ipad in center console

vu-din in center console

all being ripped out and being sold

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What i would try to do is try to get tape in the gap between the wooden port extension and the under side of the rear deck lid. Then when that is on there, use long stand kitty hair filter and put it in the gap. Wait for it to dry then carefully remove it to glass the bottom side. Should hold it in place long enough and not move till it is in place.

formerly known as Blue86f150

its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies.

Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive

this sux camel dicks
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That's some work son! I dig it. :D

I once thought of putting modeling clay inside of my enclosures for my mids- thinking it would help on resonances. Looks like you've come up with a real good use for it too though. That sounds like a real good idea. Much cleaner and more precise way to work.

Thanks Colin :good:

I got the idea scanning through somebodies build, I forget who but it seems like it may work.

Or just say screw it and glass the top, then the bottom, then if I need to sand through the top layer then no big deal.

Love your build BTW.

Those red Vega surrounds always take me back to the early 90's. :good:

How about hot glue. It will hold the two together and can be pealed off once the bottom is glassed. I use a soldering iron to loosen hot glue after I don't need it.

Good suggestion, I'll have to look into that. I was thinking that the gap may be too big for runny hot glue but that may work.

I need to get a hot glue gun anyway for various other projects, thanks for the comment! :good:

What i would try to do is try to get tape in the gap between the wooden port extension and the under side of the rear deck lid. Then when that is on there, use long stand kitty hair filter and put it in the gap. Wait for it to dry then carefully remove it to glass the bottom side. Should hold it in place long enough and not move till it is in place.

Hmmm, another good idea. I did just get some 1/2" fiberglass chopped strands that I can use to make my own kitty hair.

Just not sure how I'd secure that tape under there but I'll have to check that out.

Good stuff! Thanks guys :drinks:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

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I had a question in the SQ section, but lets take a vote and see what some of you others think.

Given how my trunk build is, this will never be a numbers car and I'm cool with that. So why not make it more SQ oriented, or SQL as some call it.

Here's what I have collected for highs:

Hertz HSK130's (Tweeter and 5 1/4"mid).

Hertz HSK165's (Tweeter and 6 1/2"mid).

Hertz ES200's (8" subs)

Do I just use the HSK165's in well built door pods with great placement for a pure SQ setup.

Or......try and shoe-horn all of them into my doors for something that screams! :D

I'm torn between both directions.

The biggest issue would be powering all those highs and where to put the extra amps since my trunk is pretty full at the moment.

Another thought I had was to install all the highs, but have a switch to control the remote turn-on leads to the various amps.

So with a flip a switch I go from only HSK165's to full bore!

Hmmmmm.....

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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This build came through my thread at 9:14 pm. It is now 12:07 am. You sir, are a very talented well thought-out craftsman. The last 3 hours of my Friday night were full of learning from, and marveling at your build. Thanks for that. Cheers!

Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed?

KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once

JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4

Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1

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This build came through my thread at 9:14 pm. It is now 12:07 am. You sir, are a very talented well thought-out craftsman. The last 3 hours of my Friday night were full of learning from, and marveling at your build. Thanks for that. Cheers!

Thanks Dude! :good:

Comments like this make it all worth it!

:drinks:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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With my hertz xls, i our then in sealed kick pods on 100 ways and they had great authority in the mid bass spectrum. So if you can do done nice sealed door panels somewhat on axis i think they will sound great. I'm planning in doing for panels for the hertz with the xl comps with the hl70 running active.

formerly known as Blue86f150

its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies.

Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive

this sux camel dicks
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I just read this whole build. HOLY. SHIT. It's truly amazing, keep up the good work!

Thanks! Much appreciated. :D

With my hertz xls, i our then in sealed kick pods on 100 ways and they had great authority in the mid bass spectrum. So if you can do done nice sealed door panels somewhat on axis i think they will sound great. I'm planning in doing for panels for the hertz with the xl comps with the hl70 running active.

Good to hear! Thanks. :drinks:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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Got a couple sweet things last night....

SMD VM-1 :woot:

301SMDVM-1_zps634eaa74.jpg

Had me a look at the guts. Very interesting Mr D'Amore ;)

I also had a Lowes Gift Card to burn.

I had always wanted an impact driver but never pulled the "trigger" :ehh:

Well watching an episode of "AMPLIFIED" the other day and the guys mentioned how handy an impact driver was to get into tight spaces that a normal cordless drill can't.

I instantly thought of when I was dissembling my rear deck and everything I used on the screws was hitting my rear window and scratching my tint. :(

So I picked up one of these:

302HitachiImpactDriver_zps97a74daa.jpg

Why Hitachi you ask? Yes, it is green and a lil fugly, BUT it had the shortest working depth (bit attachment to rear of handle) of all the impact drivers I looked at. Plus it is very light weight and I'm rather impressed at how tiny the batteries are compared to my other clunky cordless drills (not Li-Ion).

Can't wait to put it to werk!

Those Hitachi drills will do some damage. I've got one just like it but a little larger and it'll push a screw straight through a board if you want it too.

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