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I'm thinkinf about buying a Hifonics Brutus. When you get it in could u do pros and cons of it? I haven't heard too many bad things about it.

My experience with the Brutus:

Pros - produces very close to rated power, very stable, has operated at a .5ohm load for a quick minute without blowing, amp protect works very well when a speaker blows or if there are wiring issues.

Cons - induces slight distortion around 1500+ watts rms during operation, fins are sharp (cut myself once), angled 2awg +/- input makes things a little tricky, bass knob cuts the high pass at 30hz.

Just my 2c. :]

--Harry D

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2007 Chevy Silverado Classic 5.3L w/ Brutus 1700W, NVX 4 Chan, L7 Subs, Sony Deck & Alpine Speaks
Sonic Electronix Articles by Harry Donihue --> CLICK

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Thanks harry. So would u recommend running without the bass knob? I listen to alot of rap and quite a bit hits below 30hz

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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I'm thinkinf about buying a Hifonics Brutus. When you get it in could u do pros and cons of it? I haven't heard too many bad things about it.

My experience with the Brutus:

Pros - produces very close to rated power, very stable, has operated at a .5ohm load for a quick minute without blowing, amp protect works very well when a speaker blows or if there are wiring issues.

Cons - induces slight distortion around 1500+ watts rms during operation, fins are sharp (cut myself once), angled 2awg +/- input makes things a little tricky, bass knob cuts the high pass at 30hz.

Just my 2c. :]

--Harry D

Thanks man I have my subs wired down to 2 ohm and the BRZ1700.1 (what I was looking at buying) is 1200 rms at 2 ohm. Will this make it distorted since it is a 1700 watt amp?
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Thanks harry. So would u recommend running without the bass knob? I listen to alot of rap and quite a bit hits below 30hz

I personally am a fan of bass knobs, but in this case I threw it back in the box and use the settings on my receiver now. Once you get the amp installed I would play around with the bass knob plugged in and not plugged in to find your preference.

I'm thinkinf about buying a Hifonics Brutus. When you get it in could u do pros and cons of it? I haven't heard too many bad things about it.

My experience with the Brutus:

Pros - produces very close to rated power, very stable, has operated at a .5ohm load for a quick minute without blowing, amp protect works very well when a speaker blows or if there are wiring issues.

Cons - induces slight distortion around 1500+ watts rms during operation, fins are sharp (cut myself once), angled 2awg +/- input makes things a little tricky, bass knob cuts the high pass at 30hz.

Just my 2c. :]

--Harry D

Thanks man I have my subs wired down to 2 ohm and the BRZ1700.1 (what I was looking at buying) is 1200 rms at 2 ohm. Will this make it distorted since it is a 1700 watt amp?

1200 watts leaves plenty of headroom on that amp, there shouldn't be any distortion at that level so long as your input voltage is set correctly.

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2007 Chevy Silverado Classic 5.3L w/ Brutus 1700W, NVX 4 Chan, L7 Subs, Sony Deck & Alpine Speaks
Sonic Electronix Articles by Harry Donihue --> CLICK

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In fact... for 1200 watts of subwoofer power I would absolutely recommend the brz1700 over the 1200.

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2007 Chevy Silverado Classic 5.3L w/ Brutus 1700W, NVX 4 Chan, L7 Subs, Sony Deck & Alpine Speaks
Sonic Electronix Articles by Harry Donihue --> CLICK

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I'm thinkinf about buying a Hifonics Brutus. When you get it in could u do pros and cons of it? I haven't heard too many bad things about it.

My experience with the Brutus:

Pros - produces very close to rated power, very stable, has operated at a .5ohm load for a quick minute without blowing, amp protect works very well when a speaker blows or if there are wiring issues.

Cons - induces slight distortion around 1500+ watts rms during operation, fins are sharp (cut myself once), angled 2awg +/- input makes things a little tricky, bass knob cuts the high pass at 30hz.

Just my 2c. :]

--Harry D

Another con is the mounting is cheap ass plastic, and breaks when your screw it down.

7w1lnOR.jpg

2004 Bagged Trailblazer

(4)18" Sundown Nsv3s
(4) Taramps HD10000s, Taramps DSP3000, Lanzar opti 250x2, AB 100x4
(2)DC power SP 270s, (14)XS Power d3100s, (1)d6500

 

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It needs a 160 amp so I went a little bigger is all. Running 1/0 kicker power throughout vehicle

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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