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Just got my DD-1, so frustrated..


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LOL. here we go again, another guy with less than 10 posts that wants to return his dd-1 because he can't figure out what he did wrong. "my speakers sound like shit now so it must be the dd-1's fault!"

he isnt blaming the dd-1, he already admitted it's his fault.

O.P., Simple fix here is if you pre-outs are "rear" outs then just unhook your rear speakers and fade your head unit to rear and then set. While you are back there you may want to test your speaker outs on your head unit too.

edit, use track 2, its 1khz for mids, track 1 40hz for subs

Edited by strangeduck
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I like the part where you say you'll just sell it instead of fixing your ALREADY working system. Clearly your system is not working that well if the DD-1 is showing you otherwise. Let me know if you wanna sell it, best $100 I'll ever spend.

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Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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LOL. here we go again, another guy with less than 10 posts that wants to return his dd-1 because he can't figure out what he did wrong. "my speakers sound like shit now so it must be the dd-1's fault!"

he isnt blaming the dd-1, he already admitted it's his fault.

O.P., Simple fix here is if you pre-outs are "rear" outs then just unhook your rear speakers and fade your head unit to rear and then set. While you are back there you may want to test your speaker outs on your head unit too.

edit, use track 2, its 1khz for mids, track 1 40hz for subs

Any reason the manual suggests track 1 for the test?

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LOL. here we go again, another guy with less than 10 posts that wants to return his dd-1 because he can't figure out what he did wrong. "my speakers sound like shit now so it must be the dd-1's fault!"

he isnt blaming the dd-1, he already admitted it's his fault.

O.P., Simple fix here is if you pre-outs are "rear" outs then just unhook your rear speakers and fade your head unit to rear and then set. While you are back there you may want to test your speaker outs on your head unit too.

edit, use track 2, its 1khz for mids, track 1 40hz for subs

Any reason the manual suggests track 1 for the test?

I don't have my manual right here, but read what i just wrote.

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LOL. here we go again, another guy with less than 10 posts that wants to return his dd-1 because he can't figure out what he did wrong. "my speakers sound like shit now so it must be the dd-1's fault!"

he isnt blaming the dd-1, he already admitted it's his fault.

O.P., Simple fix here is if you pre-outs are "rear" outs then just unhook your rear speakers and fade your head unit to rear and then set. While you are back there you may want to test your speaker outs on your head unit too.

edit, use track 2, its 1khz for mids, track 1 40hz for subs

Any reason the manual suggests track 1 for the test?

I don't have my manual right here, but read what i just wrote.

That's fine I'll go do that it's just I was following the manual 100% and the manual clearly says to test the HU through the Amp you play track 1.

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it says use track 1 and 2 and use the lower volume of the two

edit.

well, technically it says average, but lower is better.

edit 2.0

7. Now take the noted maximum volume settings

from the 40Hz test and the 1kHz test and

average them. This is your maximum

undistorted volume setting for the headunit

Edited by strangeduck
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u dont have a 4 channel so use your regular speaker wires NOT the pree outs to fint where they clip at. then hoot the dd1 back up to your amp and use the volume number u got from the regular speaker test and play track 3,5, or 7 and set the gain on your amp

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im more confused as to why your mids are playing 40hz instead of having a cutoff...

I was wondering the same thing? I don't have an amp hooked up to my mids, but why is the HU playing 40hz

Because you don't have a high pass filter set.

And the fact more than one person agrees does not make it a circle jerk, it makes it a bukkake scene and you're in the middle ;)

Chick took 3 shots of Jager, and then, pissed in my mouth..

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