Battery Choice, and wiring Questions.

[detroitdb]

you could always check around at some local battery stores, they sometime sell used ups batts..like c&d tech..usually around 60 bucks...but i agree with the other guys...do the big three and you should be solid...

[getlocivic]

I've got a megatron plus under the hood. It's overkill for my crank, and has plenty of headroom for a little audio. It's a great battery, won't dissapoint.

Good to hear, I always enjoy opinions on products I want to buy, I have yet to read a bad one for a Megatron Plus Battery.

my work car ( 94 civic) came with a interstate megatron battery..3yrs ago and it still rests at 12.55 for days n days.. i do keep it on a trickle charger when it sits for awhile..but interstate would be the only wetcell battery id own.. DIEHARD batteries are great also..

the cheap duralast batts at autozone r total crap..ive had many die on me without even having a system in the car..they are just cheap cheap

[snafu]

I just sold a kit to a guy in a 2001 Ford Explorer. He bought the 4 foot kit and it worked perfectly. Just measure the distance between the alternator and battery and take into consideration a nice smooth routing of the cable to the battery. This is how you determine length of the kit you need. If you also want to fuse the charge lead, then we simply increase the charge lead by 1 foot so that you have enough cable slack to easily mount the fuse holder.

Keep in mind, all SMD Members get a 10% discount.

[Tebo]

look into the deka intimidator batts sealed agm battery for about 175 shipped, specs are pretty close to the yellow top but im not 110% i would have to compare them again

[1996BLKBauer]

I just sold a kit to a guy in a 2001 Ford Explorer. He bought the 4 foot kit and it worked perfectly. Just measure the distance between the alternator and battery and take into consideration a nice smooth routing of the cable to the battery. This is how you determine length of the kit you need. If you also want to fuse the charge lead, then we simply increase the charge lead by 1 foot so that you have enough cable slack to easily mount the fuse holder.

Keep in mind, all SMD Members get a 10% discount.

I will measure it and see what I need, I have seen a few local guys in my area with there wires going right over there engine block. For me, and just about anybody that is a no go. It is always better to have too much and not enough, but since I don't have a ton of money I want just the right amount.

No I have read a lot about putting a fuse inline with the alt connection. But since I have a stock alt I don't think I need it. In your personal opinion, do you think I really need one?

@detroitdb I have actually already checked used battery, most shops by me carry AZ, or Advanced battery's that have been turned in.

@getlocivic This is good to hear, I am 99% sure I am going to get one

@Tebo I will check that out, but still pretty set on the Interstate Megatron Plus.

[snafu]

This is the purpose of the fuse - to protect the vehicle's electronics from excessive voltage in the event that the regulator fails. That's it. The factory will always use a fusible link on the charge lead for this very reason. In all my years, I've never seen this happen but we ALWAYS educate people about the possibility.

[1996BLKBauer]

This is the purpose of the fuse - to protect the vehicle's electronics from excessive voltage in the event that the regulator fails. That's it. The factory will always use a fusible link on the charge lead for this very reason. In all my years, I've never seen this happen but we ALWAYS educate people about the possibility.

If I opt to get a fuse, just in case (I got a AZ replacement alt, so I don't trust it 100%). Does the kit include the fuse holder, and fuse, or do I just buy it myself? If I have to buy it my self, do I just get a fuse rated near or slightly above what my Alternator pumps out at optimal output? I know I have the 130amp alternator. So do I ideally want a 130, or more likely to find a 150 amp fuse?

I appreciate all the info, I have learned so much after joining this site, I feel stupid for not joining sooner.

I also plan on sending an Email when I know the length, and size I would like. 0 Gauge is a little bit out of my price range. I am uncertian how much doing 4 gauge would reduce the cost though.

Edited May 30, 2012 by 1996BLKBauer

[snafu]

I can make you a kit with 2 AWG, or even 4 AWG if you're on a budget - that is not a problem. The reason we currently only offer 1/0 AWG for the Big 3 Kits is that is because most are only interested in that. Look at our Charging System Upgrade Kits on our web site for specifics on the current capabilities of the 2 AWG and 4 AWG kits as we do offer them in that product family. These are similar to the Big 3 Kits, only with Rockford Fosgate or JL Audio battery clamps.

As far as the fuse goes, we call that option "Fuse The Charge Lead" - and it adds $50 to the price of the kit. This includes a Rockford Fosgate weather resistant ANL fuse holder, correctly sized fuse, and the additional length of wire on the charge lead. [We stock ANL fuses in all the popular sizes.] Yes, I am aware that there are lower priced fuse holders out there, but I haven't found one yet that works as well as they (and the JL ANL fuse holder - we also stock) do. One of the reasons we use this kind of fuse holder is so that the user can cut the wire in the desired place and connect both ends to the fuse holder with only an allen wrench. None of our kits are designed so that the user has to crimp a ring terminal to a large gauge wire as so few have the correct tool to do so.

Surf around our site a bit, you'll find that we offer all kinds of cool kits, components, and accessories.

[1996BLKBauer]

I can make you a kit with 2 AWG, or even 4 AWG if you're on a budget - that is not a problem. The reason we currently only offer 1/0 AWG for the Big 3 Kits is that is because most are only interested in that. Look at our Charging System Upgrade Kits on our web site for specifics on the current capabilities of the 2 AWG and 4 AWG kits as we do offer them in that product family. These are similar to the Big 3 Kits, only with Rockford Fosgate or JL Audio battery clamps.

As far as the fuse goes, we call that option "Fuse The Charge Lead" - and it adds $50 to the price of the kit. This includes a Rockford Fosgate weather resistant ANL fuse holder, correctly sized fuse, and the additional length of wire on the charge lead. [We stock ANL fuses in all the popular sizes.] Yes, I am aware that there are lower priced fuse holders out there, but I haven't found one yet that works as well as they (and the JL ANL fuse holder - we also stock) do. One of the reasons we use this kind of fuse holder is so that the user can cut the wire in the desired place and connect both ends to the fuse holder with only an allen wrench. None of our kits are designed so that the user has to crimp a ring terminal to a large gauge wire as so few have the correct tool to do so.

Surf around our site a bit, you'll find that we offer all kinds of cool kits, components, and accessories.

Well since my Alternator only produces 130amps Maximum I feel that the 4 gauge kit will suit mt needs, considering it is rated for 150amp systems. Even if I want to upgrade later, I would upgrade the alternator first, and then the wiring, but I know I would not be able to afford that anytime soon. I understand that the demand is in the 0 gauge kits, and hey if my truck was up to it I would get that too, but it is not. I would better be safe than sorry with the fuse for the alternator, and for $50 that is cheap insurance.

I really appreciate you input once again, and making this so easy for me to decide. One more question before I start saving up for this, what do you think is better the RF, and JL clamps of the Military clamps, I assume there is a price difference as well. I am leaning or the RF, or JL clamps because they seem to have cleaner look. I only really notice 2 things different in the 2 kits, the clamps, and the charging system upgrade does not include the Rockford Fosgate ring terminals. other then that they seem to be the same.

[snafu]

For car audio applications, the military style or JL Audio clamps are better suited as they can each accommodate three large gauge output leads. This is really only an issue on the positive terminal - charge lead, stock power lead to starter, and a power lead to the rear for amplifiers. If you're going 4 AWG though, the RF clamps work just as well because you can fit (2) 4 AWG leads in each of the large outputs and there are two. The reason the RF rings are included in the Big 3 Kits is so that the installer can easily connect the stock battery cable to the new battery clamps without any specialized electrical tools. If you prefer the JL Clamps, then we can do the JL fuse holder in lieu of the RF fuse holder so that it all matches for the same price.