WICK3DxGATA Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 i have heard both of these subs. if it was me i would go more towards the JL just because to me or at least in the set up i heard it on the JL was more clear sounding compared to the Type R's. but to me they are both decent subs and they will both do what you want. For the box i would try a build a ported enclosure for either of them. 99 Gmc sierra extended cab front speakers: DB drive 6.5 back speakers: DB drive 6.5 amp: none right not subs: none right now Future waiting to get my 2 skar vvw 8s installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPL KID Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Type R's all day. Make sure you get the newest model they have available now. Grab the d4 model will wire to 1 ohm and the rise will take you to 2 or so then you will make rated power. You can buy a prefab as long as it meets air specs for the sub requirement. The port tuning is up to you but most prefabs are 35 hertz tune. Just double check before you buy one. NSPL 2001 Trunk 251-500 world champion. 2009 2nd place 0-1800 147.9 under 1800 watts. 2011 0-3601 Trunk Champion. No Typo Current 0-3600 Trunk WR Holder! 149.9 (0-1800) /147.5 (1801-3600) /???.? (3601-up) need new front window first! Learn to be quiet about what your workin on.. L O S E = (L)etting (O)thers (S)ee (E)verything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 please no vs threads. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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