AB18VFL Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 sorry but i saw this and wanted to ask when is a Amp Relay / Battery Isolator needed when adding another battery? i've been told that they are useless, just a marketing scheme. IT'S JUST WHAT I'VE HEARD THOUGH! and i wouldnt mind hearing other opinions also! Quote SUBSCRIBE AT YOUTUBE! 18abVFL < CLICK!! 2005 Subaru Impreza My build log. Head unit- Kenwood Excelon KDC-X695 Front doors- Rockford Fosgate 6.5" Prime components Rear doors- Rockford Fosgate 4" Punch coaxials Sub amp- Audiopipe AP18001d Subs- Two American Bass TNT 10"s Box- 2.6 cubes @ 34hz, 36in of port Big 3 & run of Raptor 1/0 to rear powercell TEAM 808 UPSTATE NY. Can it be heard 2 blocks away, thats how i rate systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Useless - hardly. Each has it's own merits. Quote Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Like this: Batt----fuse-------------------fuse----batt And get the fuses as close to the battery's as possible so you have the least amount of unprotected wire as possible to short out on something and catch on fire. And make sure you fuse to the wire's rating. So if your wire is rated at 300A use a fuse no larger than 300A. cant believe no one clarified that you fuse both ends of the POSITIVE wire. dont worry about the negative/ground. I have pos and negative both connected to each other. Am I losing power with long ground? im assuming you dont actually mean the + and - wires are connected together and you really mean you have runs to the front battery for both + and -. and the answer is, no. you can easily have less resistance with a - run front to back. copper will have much less resistance than the steel chassis. sorry but i saw this and wanted to ask when is a Amp Relay / Battery Isolator needed when adding another battery? you use a relay if you plan on playing your stereo with the car off. then you can always start your car even if you drain the rear battery. as long as you aren't stupid like that though lol you wont need one. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Like this: Batt----fuse-------------------fuse----batt And get the fuses as close to the battery's as possible so you have the least amount of unprotected wire as possible to short out on something and catch on fire. And make sure you fuse to the wire's rating. So if your wire is rated at 300A use a fuse no larger than 300A. cant believe no one clarified that you fuse both ends of the POSITIVE wire. dont worry about the negative/ground. I said the positive wire needs to be fused, a few posts above. Quote Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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